Thread: The Ashcroft Locker

I'm running ARB lockers & Ashcroft 4.12 CW&P's (tooth count 33/8) front and rear in my D1 and had no issues so far. If I had to do it again, I'd probably go with Ashcroft Lockers, which have been released since my build, just on the back of their excellent reputation.

Edit: Actually just realised I may be running the old style CW&P's - when were the new 8 tooth released?
Mine are definitely 4.12, not 4.11, so does that mean they are the new HD version?

Originally Posted by Presto

I'm running ARB lockers & Ashcroft 4.12 CW&P's (tooth count 33/8) front and rear in my D1 and had no issues so far. If I had to do it again, I'd probably go with Ashcroft Lockers, which have been released since my build, just on the back of their excellent reputation.

Edit: Actually just realised I may be running the old style CW&P's - when were the new 8 tooth released?
Mine are definitely 4.12, not 4.11, so does that mean they are the new HD version?

The diffs in the front and rear of your D1 are Rover type. Not the same as the P38/late 110 rear. Depending on how old your R+P are, there has been some design changes, but Im pretty certain they would still be stronger than factory.

GBR or Great Basin Rovers also do some vert HD R+P for the Rover type diff.

The Ashcroft locker looks to be a better option than the ARB going off what has been talked about on here.

Originally Posted by uninformed

Newhue, I dont think the Ashcroft HD R+P are for the P38 type diff. I believe they are only for the Rover type diff. On their website, all they offer for a P38 type diff is a stock 3.54 and a 4.11 aftermarket. I could not see whether the 4.11 was stronger or different tooth count?

There is a thread in the 90,110,130 section about puma rear diffs. Ashcroft have chimed in there.

What tyres do you run? How hard do you drive? A new carrier (ie Ashcroft locker) new axles and drive flanges may be all you need. Yes the pinion and Ring gear are the weak point, but if set up properly may be ok for your needs...

Other than that, as Ashcroft havent yet actually made their P38 diff HD upgrade, swapping in a Sals may be an option.

thanks, for some reason I though a puma had a P38, but must be the the trusty old rover diff.

I will be running 33's and I don't drive it fast, but happy to plod up steep hills, or will give most things a go.
I'm guessing the HD R & P for rover diffs is more for competition, and I'd assume Ashcrofts standard rover and P38 R & P would be an upgrade from LR specifications, not just a replacement.

Originally Posted by newhue

thanks, for some reason I though a puma had a P38, but must be the the trusty old rover diff.

I will be running 33's and I don't drive it fast, but happy to plod up steep hills, or will give most things a go.
I'm guessing the HD R & P for rover diffs is more for competition, and I'd assume Ashcrofts standard rover and P38 R & P would be an upgrade from LR specifications, not just a replacement.

Im not 100% sure but I think it is a case of the 90's having Rover type diffs front and rear, Rover type front in the 110's and 130's but have the P38 type diff in the rear only. This diff started to appear in 1999 or so in the defender range. The term "Puma" is causing some missinformation. It is the name given to the engine project. The problem with these particular diffs is being compounded by poor set up from the factory, which has gotten worse in last couple of years.

If you are upgrading a rover diff, no reason you wouldnt go for a HD R+P even if you dont compete, especially if doing a ratio change. Myself, I have a Sals rear and rover front. As I didnt change ratios and installed a MD I just kept the OEM, but I mostly do road miles on 32's

The Ashcroft 3.54 P38 R+P set I believe is just a OEM replacement. Not sure about the details on the 4.11 for same diff from them, but it isnt to the spec of there other HD sets.

EDIT: Newhue, I see in your sig you have a 130Tdci. Im pretty sure these are the P38 type rear (only). If you have a locker, axles and flanges, My advice would be just get them fitted, run the hub bearings in oil and make sure the diff is set up properly (specialist) Unless you want a ratio change, your not going to get a better R+P set anywhere. Set up is the biggest problem (outside of design) with these diffs.Unfortunately you have no option for this diff to improve the R+P or other design problems. But my guess is with the new gear and set up properly, good oil and changes you will be fine

wrong post

Nothing Stumpy1, you're just like a young bloke who's discovered sex; ya wanna try everything

might be on to something there

Originally Posted by Didge

Nothing Stumpy1, you're just like a young bloke who's discovered sex; ya wanna try everything

You don't necessarily have to be all that young. I'm 62 and I'm still suffering from that affliction
Bill.