I'll measure up and get back with more detail, - the main issue is socket clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
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I'll measure up and get back with more detail, - the main issue is socket clearance.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
socket or spanner haha. I cant see how you would get a socket with any driving device attached. I have some nice Snap-on Hi performance 12 point ring spanners. The 14-17mm version is their longest in 14mm so you can get some good torque on those double hex bolts.
but yes tool clearance was my reasoning for maybe a smaller dia bolt between the others? this may be of some help to the 7 bolt swivels. Or a person could cut off the axle flange machine a new one and weld up the holes in the swivels flange and add as many bolts as posible all the way around, allowing of coarse for tool size to tighten the bolts. I have seen high pressure flanges on pipe work that has bolts almost touching all the way around. I figure there must be some small similarity in these???
Not sure which diff housing chief is using.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bush65
I slotted the 74 RR balls from my POS and welded up the slots so that effectively the holes just got moved. Was really easy to do in sequence after slotting on the end of a spare housing using an old oily bolt that the weld wouldn't stick to. I just ground the excess off the outside with an angle grinder.
Note: the flanges on the other balls I have (81 RR) are at least 20% thicker than the 74 ones for whatever reason. Internals are the same and internal spacing has been adjusted at the factory. I'd use those next time.
I used the widest thickest washers I could find under the bolt heads. No probs to date. (80 thou)
cheers, DL
i am using a 1986 110 diff housing and have 7 bolts...how did you slot your holes? and also with welding was it easy or was it a mission? as i was wondering if oil impregnation may have occured to the steel making welding difficult...
i am going to slot holes use thick washers as previously stated then for extra security i am considering drilling a 10mm hole through swivel ball flange and then assembling it all back together to new adjustment point then marking diff side flange then remove swivel ball again drill and tap diff side flange and then i will have a lock bolt so to speak...
Hi Chief,
Made a circular jig out of ply clamped to a drill press with a slotting bit. Bit tedious as the flanges are quite hard. You have to double check you're clocking the holes the right way!!
I am no gun welder. All traces of oil were removed from the flanges, balls were mounted on a spare housing using two opposite bolts in the new rotated position. Slots were filled with weld one by one using an old oily bolt in each as I went. Surprisingly easy. Cleaned up the outer surface carefully with a 4" grinder.
cheers, DL
mmmm interesting...any pics of the process?
one advantage of how you do it was that the holes were already slotted then you welded but the problem i can see with welding holes prior then drilling new holes is that no matter how good your marking out is it will never be spot on compared to the other side...
i have already marked the direction of where the slots will need to go (hopefully my mind didnt slip up that day :angel: ) then use a dividing head on the mill and see how well it turns out i shal post pics up when im doing it if i can figure out how :D
Hi again,
Slot first, rotate, then fill the slots to create holes only. Was a long while ago and I think I was going for 7 degrees.
To get them the same you just pick a slot on each that is closest to the end rotation you were after and use that as your reference (leave a bolt in that slot end) when welding up the rest.
Don't have pics and a milling machine would be a gazillion times better than doing it the way I did.
cheers, DL
If you slot them in a mill over 5 degree's, they aill leave an edge that is good enough to stop any rotation, I ran these for years
If you wanna build diffs, get a front sals, convert rear to 35 spline front to 30, if you wanna do diffs on a budget, use GU 3.5 ratio diff's
I have a question, all this theory and all these posts, do you have the time and dollars to achieve what your after? none of this stuff is new, no leadin edge technology, its all been doneded beforeded:D
You need to answer 3 things
1. your budget
2. The desired result
3. what your capability (hands on to build stuff) is
Simply mathematics will tell you if its viable
That's about the guts of it.Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
Time - wise I had the slotting bit already: then balls off, made the jig, slotted the holes, welded up the slots, re-assembled all in a day. Welding part was quick, slotting was slowest but a mill would be much quicker.
Then took the POS for a drive.....................no more shopping trolley. :cool:
DL
the problem i can see with the front sals is trying to find one....Quote:
Originally Posted by rovercare
budget is like most people which = least amount possible for the best outcome :angel:
well the desired outcome is to have a diff that is reliable under offroading circumstances having said this i have yet to have a problem with a rover diff apart from in my puma which is on its 3rd rear diff :mad: so will be interesting to see if the rover front holds up (im not in competition use for now as i would like to keep it road registered to do trips and play around with diesel performance so to speak) however i am on teh look out for a gu front now you have said that
as for capability ...brain surgery is possible all you need to do is read the book :D being serious though my father is a fitter machinist that hates fitting but loves machining who will help if i get stuck but i prefer to try myself.