diff upgrade options

**c.h.i.e.f** · 1st April 2012, 10:57 AM

ok i have my front diff out and all in pieces ready to slot the swivel balls and bracing the housing..
as per my previous statements about stronger diff options i have been discussing with a friend about "pegging" the rover diff centre for those that dont know its placing slight pressure on the crown wheel by putting 2 bolts down through the casing and a phosphor bronze pad that touches the back of the crown wheel where it contacts the pinion there is some info on ashcroft site for those that are interested.
ok but heres my thoughts on this:
1.i am wondering if it is worth doing as its alot of work and in the end i am probably left with a piece of s##t still

2.im not sure how to place the pad down there near the crown wheel as it looks like it will be a guessing game??

3.as said before im probably trying to make crap into gold!!!

4.then again this idea has been used in the UK in competition use and 40" tyres without fail i have been told.

5.all this will cost say $1200 for locker whilst its out,$100 in material for pegging,$100 for bracing material,if i cannot figure out how to set the diff up well that will cost to get someone to do that im guessing,im planning on running the standard cv's and axles until i snap one then it would be rovertracks going in which will be another what $1200?? thats already at $2600 and in the end its still a rover diff.

6.when pulling everything apart everything is marked with white and yellow paint things such as cv's have white paint on them the diff housing has white paint marks on it the inside of the swivel balls also have yellow paint on them does anyone know what this may mean? im asuming its just factory markings?

7.i have been seeing crate diffs from america that look indestructible and are using stuff such as dana60 etc etc and there around the $2000-$3500 mark maybe they might be worth looking at?

sorry about the length of this

**clubagreenie** · 1st April 2012, 05:18 PM

There shouldn't be any constant pressure on the backside of the crownwheel as it will just wear away anyway. It should be close but not touching, I think there's a reference measurement in another thread which mentions it but I'm not sure which.

**c.h.i.e.f** · 1st April 2012, 08:56 PM

auh ok well even so im still worried that im as people would like to say "polishing a turd"... i tried a gq centre today but there is no hope in hell that one is gunna fit in the rover housing...i am tempted to buy some unimog diffs off a guy selling 2 fronts (could have rear steer then) only problem being i will not be able to drive on the road so thats still a dream at this stage

**Vern** · 2nd April 2012, 06:57 PM

buy a front sals from the UK, or off popemobile on here, he makes a housing

**isuzutoo-eh** · 2nd April 2012, 08:11 PM

Originally Posted by Vern

buy a front sals from the UK, or off popemobile on here, he makes a housing

But will it clear the Isuzu sump? Has anyone actually measured/tested to see if the longer/beefier nose will clear everything?

**ashtrans** · 3rd April 2012, 06:40 AM

Originally Posted by clive22

The pegging I have is set up without the bronze bush per Ashcroft setup which neither myself or Matt at TTD like, it has to wear - requiring re-adjustment ie pull your diff every year or so - no thanks.

Mine is set up with two H.S. studs (Unbrako) about 0.5mm behind the crown wheel so they only engage when the CW flexes,

Clive

We back the 2 studs out 1/4 turn to give 0.5mm clearance, the pad doesn't wear much at all as it is only in contact under deflection,

We have seen high tensile bolts used before but you really want a bearing material in there to stop it picking up,

Dave

**c.h.i.e.f** · 3rd April 2012, 07:51 AM

Originally Posted by isuzutoo-eh

But will it clear the Isuzu sump? Has anyone actually measured/tested to see if the longer/beefier nose will clear everything?

Sorry I have not yet had a chance to try the rear sals under the front to check clearances yet... Um I will probably be making a new sump any how to get rid of the wing so I can fit my exhaust easier !

**c.h.i.e.f** · 3rd April 2012, 07:56 AM

Originally Posted by ashtrans

We back the 2 studs out 1/4 turn to give 0.5mm clearance, the pad doesn't wear much at all as it is only in contact under deflection,

We have seen high tensile bolts used before but you really want a bearing material in there to stop it picking up,

Dave

Only thing that still worries me is that it prevents crown wheel flexing but I'm not sure that the diff will still Handel hard going as they are not a as robust as Nissan or any other for that fact... All my concern is that if I am going to this trouble I might be better off going a tad further and making it twice as good but then again I could be under estimating things !!!

**Bush65** · 3rd April 2012, 09:40 AM

Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f

... i tried a gq centre today but there is no hope in hell that one is gunna fit in the rover housing...

I know the H233B high pinion diff can be fitted into the early (non-flat bottom) rangie front housings.

The early housing has 1 less bolt (6 vs 7) for the swivel balls, but has the advantage that there is space for adding 2 extra bolts, one either side of the bottom bolt where you need them, thus much stronger than the later arrangement.

**c.h.i.e.f** · 3rd April 2012, 12:11 PM

Thanks John ... I unfortunately have the later one of the 2

I may have also picked up the incorrect gq centre as I have 1 out of a petrol one , one out a diesel and a rear one maybe I picked up the wrong one I'll double check!!
In your opinion John with my swivel slotting I'm looking at around 8mm of slotting that will have to be done do you recon that is to much ? I'm planning on making thick washers to fit under heads of the bolts to try and help

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