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Thread: diff upgrade options

  1. 5th April 2012, 01:26 PM #41
    Bush65
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    Thanks John ... I unfortunately have the later one of the 2 I may have also picked up the incorrect gq centre as I have 1 out of a petrol one , one out a diesel and a rear one maybe I picked up the wrong one I'll double check!!
    In your opinion John with my swivel slotting I'm looking at around 8mm of slotting that will have to be done do you recon that is to much ? I'm planning on making thick washers to fit under heads of the bolts to try and help
    how much you slot the holes depends on how much castor correction is needed.

    Thick washers will help with the fatigue strength og the bolts, also not having the slot extend past the shank of the bolts, i.e. don't make the slots any longer than necessary. For fatigue strength it is necessary to maximise the area of flange that is under compression when the bolt is tightened - this area is a sort of cone shape region, through the flange from the underside of the bolt head, i.e. it enlarges as the compression extends through the thickness of the flange. Slotting reduces the area, and the thick washer helps to restore some (but not all) of the lost area.

    Edit: these bolts loosen or break because because the fatigue strength is reduced by insufficient pre-tension or because stiffness of the flange in the area under the bolt head is reduced (gasket instead of metal to metal joint, thick sealant or dirt in the joint, or mating surfaces not flat (burred).
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  2. 5th April 2012, 02:14 PM #42
    uninformed
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    John, when you say there is room for a bolt either side of the bottom bolt on 6 bolt swivels, would this be a bolt of the same dia as factory?

    Also would there be any benefit of fitting additional smaller id bolts?
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  3. 5th April 2012, 08:04 PM #43
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    using the maths that lambrover used to figure out correction needed i came out with 8mm so at the moment i have my old boy making up a shaft that fits through the swivel ball and will be held in the dividing head and slots machined...
    as for the mating surfaces (flanges) i would like it so that i did not need to use any gasket but im not sure if it will be doable?
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  4. 6th April 2012, 10:11 AM #44
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    I just skimmed throught the thread sorry if it has been posted before.

    But why not just put complete gq front diff in radius arms and all?

    They just about slide straight in, the nissan and rover panhard can even been sleeved together.

    Then just a put a set of heat treated garner cv's or his new long field conversion for nissans.

    would be an easy and strong front end.
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  5. 6th April 2012, 04:04 PM #45
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    Problem still being then either pinion angle way out or need swivels rotated
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  6. 6th April 2012, 05:38 PM #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    Problem still being then either pinion angle way out or need swivels rotated
    The pinion shouldn't be out with the Nissan diff, should it ?

    And being a high pinion centre, it at least reduces the uni angles.

    BTW, you can't rotate the swivels easily on a Nissan (or Toyota) as they are welded on

    If you need to alter castor and/or camber on a Patrol you use eccentric swivel bearing cups.
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  7. 6th April 2012, 05:52 PM #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    The pinion shouldn't be out with the Nissan diff, should it ?

    And being a high pinion centre, it at least reduces the uni angles.

    BTW, you can't rotate the swivels easily on a Nissan (or Toyota) as they are welded on

    If you need to alter castor and/or camber on a Patrol you use eccentric swivel bearing cups.
    Sorry with the swivels that's what I was referring to about rotating them is a nightmare as the work would have to be done by someone that can get them perfect once cut and rewelded.

    I'm not sure how good the eccentric bearing cups work as I personally have not had anything to do with them...

    Also good point with the point about high pinion as that should resolve some problems I would assume ...

    Anyone know if the radius arm brakets are the same distance apart on the gq diff compared to the rover ones ?
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  8. 6th April 2012, 05:57 PM #48
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    The eccentric cups work great, we've had them for years in our Patrol to correct the wanders, but I don't know how much total adjustment you can get.

    I can measure the GU in the morning if you need.
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  9. 7th April 2012, 07:58 AM #49
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    Mmmm would be interesting to know the total adjustment but then again combine that with the higher pinion than the rover diff it may allow room for the whole diff to be rolled back when welding radius arm brakets on...

    If you have a spare minute a measurement would go good please and thank you ...
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  10. 7th April 2012, 10:28 AM #50
    Bush65
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    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    ...
    as for the mating surfaces (flanges) i would like it so that i did not need to use any gasket but im not sure if it will be doable?
    Perhaps my earlier post wasn't clear - use metal to metal (no gasket) as a gasket with lower elastic modulus reduces the fatigue strength of the bolts.
    Quote Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f View Post
    ...
    Anyone know if the radius arm brakets are the same distance apart on the gq diff compared to the rover ones ?
    Close enough. I have Nissan GU diffs (with portals) and radius arms under my bushie.
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