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Threading hollow bar and using lock nut against to lock/set length
Planning on making cranked arm as well
Are you angling your TA Mount for neutral bush bind at standard vehicle height?
I understand pinch clamps work better but we are not bound by lightweight vs. engineering.
IE we can over engineer in the material weight/size
Dc
Yes my plan is to fold the mount past 90 degrees so the vertical face is perpendicular to the TA. I'm going to keep my straight. I'm sure yours will be fine. My thoughts are to go into it with the best designs I can to keep the engineer/DOT happy. Plus it allows me to fine tune if i change spring height.
what are the rules for determining wall thickness at the pinch clamp section?
anyone???
Maybe just leave it full thinness and locknut it
Be a bit easier and plenty strong
The locknut theory is factory used locating the TA , a ball joint, even the
RA's
Dc
No rules for this that I'm aware of.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
Apart from physical preventers such as lockwire, cotter pins and such, what prevents nuts and bolts from loosening is friction.
Generally the friction is achieved by pre-tensioning the bolt/nut, forcing one side of the male thread aginst the mating side of the female thread.
Lock nuts are a poor method for developing this friction, and only provide a benefit if the clamped components cannot provide enough resistance against pre-tensioning. In that case the inner and outer locknuts can provide more resistance so the pre-tension can be developed within the pair of nuts. Many people don't understand locknuts and a lot of missinformation is perpetrated about them.
The pinch clamp develops friction independent of the pre-tension. If the wall thickness under the clamp is too great, little or no clamping force will be available to create friction. It won't matter if the wall is thin as this part should not transmit much axial load as it will be re-distributed to the stiffer part.
thanks John.
lets say I go along the design of what Bill described. Having a smooth shank a touch bigger OD than the major dia of the thread. The thread being furthest/deepest inside the hollow bar and the shank being in the thinner, clamped section of the hollow bar. The idea of the thread is to fine tune length of TA for pinion and truing axle in relation to chassis and front axle.
So the clamp is to stop the pin rotating and there fore changing the length of TA. The TA is still mounted to chassis as per LR OEM style bush, pin and nut.
Will the clamp used on the hollow bar at smooth shank portion of the TA pin, do the job and stop any length movement and/or rotation of said pin?
At this stage Im thinking the smooth shank should be about 35mm long and the thread 35mm long (27mm metric fine) the smooth shank will be mostly in the reduced dia section of hollow bar, with pinch clamp. The threaded section in the increasing dia/tapered section of the hollow bar.
any takers?
Or just weld the entire thing and use washers/shims to fine tune the pinion angle/length ?
Is it possible to get the welds x-rayed or someone to certify the welds for you ?
I have no idea on the xray or testing, and no idea of $$$. The reason Im looking at adjustability is to minimise welding (none at pin end) and to be able to adjust no matter of spring height.
still open to suggestions though.
I remember why you are doing it this way, the same reasons why I'm sleeving and bonding the sleeve on mine.