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Thread: Putting a chev 350 in a rangie, documenting it all!

  1. #31
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    More pics,
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #32
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    Another pic,
    Oh and I forgot to mention, cleaned the crap out of the fixing points for a good contact
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  3. #33
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    Nice work,

    It looks like its all coming together.And cheers for the details Nat!

    What coil and leads are you going to use?

  4. #34
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    Thank you!!
    Its coming along, Dizzy is a scorcher, coil was a scorcher branded unit, BUT was ******, the inside was all worn away and there was distortion around where the lead attached (no surprises there), . Leads; I have a set of 10mm Top gun leads. which will look great! I've got a set on my own RRC 4.6. happy so far.

    These will be on soon, Still figuring out the wiring. So the plan is to fire her for the first time next weekend! after mums day.

    Cheers NAT

  5. #35
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    Just a word on exhausts.
    You are wasting your time with headers if hoping for more power.
    I recall reading an article by Hot Rod Magazine who did extensive dyno tests on Chev350s with all types of manifolds and there was no difference between "Rams Horns " and sexy looking headers.
    Regards Philip A

  6. #36
    350RRC's Avatar
    350RRC is offline ForumSage Silver Subscriber
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    Hi Nat,

    Couple of things:

    You should make sure that all the weight of the radiator is taken by the grommets on the pins at the bottom, not by the brackets on the sides. The joints around the tanks will crack otherwise, especially if the radiator is carrying the weight of the fans.

    If you get extractors you need to have some sort of heat shielding near the starter. Very common for Chev starters to stick after awhile when exposed to non stock heat.

    Bottom radiator hose is from an Austin Tasman I think. Trying to find my original owners handbook which had all mods handwritten in to confirm. Hose is still available from some resto mob in eastern Melb burbs. Top hose on mine is just shortened RRC.

    Bosch induction leads will out perform and outlast TG by miles. I don't care that mine don't look sexy.

    Looking good so far!

    DL
    Last edited by 350RRC; 11th May 2013 at 08:54 AM. Reason: coz

  7. #37
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    hay gang,

    Thank you for th advice!!!! I wdo want to change that bottom hose, It is old and the inside is all rusty (ok for start up/ until I find the right hose.

    Thats very interesting about the extractors!!!! Well I cant find anything atm, other than what I have found on the net.

    Next week wiring/ and hopefully first start up.


    Cheers NAT
    P.S yep the leads are a bit wanky, but I just wanted them!

  8. #38
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    350 chev

    Quote Originally Posted by mudmouse View Post
    I've seen a 308 in a Range Rover but it had cast manifolds - perhaps you could use a set of 'block huggers' but I wouldn't expect any noticeable power gains - just look a bit nicer. Custom headers would cost a lump. Castle Auto Electrics (CAE) and darrendifillipo.com.au have a good range of DIY header kits....?

    Good luck, it looks fun!

    Matt.
    Gooday I have a Holden 308 in my RR classic 85 model an engineered ritters conversion original with extractors. Sweet no problem.
    My son did 350 chev into rr and they were block huggers.
    His problem was overheating couldn't get it cool.

  9. #39
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    Hi Nat,

    Found the original owner's handbook with all mods.

    Bottom radiator hose (Chev to RRC radiator) is from a manual Austin Tasman.

    There is a company in east Melb suburbs that stock discontinued new parts (can't remember the name........Repco might have put me on to them).

    Have spoken to them 5 yrs ago and part was in stock. If you find them get one for me as well! They don't do internet sales.

    cheers, DL

  10. #40
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    Hay all,
    I know it's been ages since last blog, but been doming boring stuff. Like starter motor needed a quick cleanout, oh if ya play with chevs, these need to be shimmed. Or they don't work well, noisy.
    Wiring for the starter motor is the exact same as range over. Power wire and trigger wire. We upgraded the power wire to a bigger diameter cops we had some spare from redoing the battery.


    We are now up to the coil side of things, I will take pics and write a wilting diagram to make things easier. I haven't looked at the tachometer wiring. I'll figure this out after. I just want to get it driving.

    The only (will hopefully) thing to do is clean up interior, going to fit a rangie factory centre console. And throttle/kick down linkage.

    I'm hoping to have it running by end of this week. Stay tuned

    Cheers Nat

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