Thread: D2 Diff into a RRC

I doubt you will find much difference in strength in practice between the Ashcroft Rover type and the Ashcroft D2 type axles and CVs when combined for strength.

I'd expect even HD axles to break before the Ashcroft CVs do.

Personally, I'd look to run the Ashcroft axles and CVs in your housing.

Or do a toyota conversion and run 30 spline axles and longfields

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I doubt you will find much difference in strength in practice between the Ashcroft Rover type and the Ashcroft D2 type axles and CVs when combined for strength.

I'd expect even HD axles to break before the Ashcroft CVs do.

Personally, I'd look to run the Ashcroft axles and CVs in your housing.

I run ashcroft everything in the front and hi tough axles with 10bolt flanges.

From Ashcrofts Website

"As the D2 has a "open knuckle" type front axle we are able to put in a much larger diameter CV joint, this increased diameter not only allows a much thicker wall of the CV bell but also allows the use of bigger balls which reduce stresses and also allows us to increase the halfshaft from the small stock 32 spline to the much larger 24 spline, same as the 24 spline at the diff end.
We have used the same proven materials as our other shafts and CV"s, ie 4340 for the shaft and CV outer and 300M for the cage and inner."

"In addition to our normal HD D2 front shafts which are made of the 4340 material we have made a limited quantity of these shafts in 300M material. This 300M is in theory only about 20% stronger but is much more elastic, we have also reduced the main shank diameter down by 2mm to ensure the whole shaft can flex and we have no stress concentrations at the spline ends. These are more expensive at ? 825/set and are aimed at the Rally Raid customers that cant afford a shaft failure mid race."
.........

So you can see from the above and previous pics the CV in the D2 is massivly stronger than the rover style so thats a big plus, you also get the 300m shaft option which is 20% stronger than the 4340 D2 shaft which in turn is no doubt is stronger than the rover shaft due to being able to fit a bigger shaft into the open knuckle D2 CV

Originally Posted by Vern

Or do a toyota conversion and run 30 spline axles and longfields

I dont like the Toymota conversion as you end up with a weekish toyota diff(especially in reverse uphill) inplace of a almost bulletproof ashcroft diff. Yes you get 30spline longfeilds but you take a step back in the diff.

To options that have excited me

1. Broaching the Ashcroft front diff to accept 30 spline axles, then run Hi tough custom 30 spline axles, longfield 30 spline CV, and high tough 30mm spline 10 bolt flanges.

2. Running a D2 housing with Ashcroft diff, ashcroft CVs, broached to 30 or 35spline, custom hi tough axles to suit and 30mm hi tough 10 bolt flanges to suit.

Both would be mega tuff, but if the D2 option was possible i think it would come out on top. Which brings me back to the original question of this thread.

Originally Posted by blackrangie

I run ashcroft everything in the front and hi tough axles with 10bolt flanges.

From Ashcrofts Website

"As the D2 has a "open knuckle" type front axle we are able to put in a much larger diameter CV joint, this increased diameter not only allows a much thicker wall of the CV bell but also allows the use of bigger balls which reduce stresses and also allows us to increase the halfshaft from the small stock 32 spline to the much larger 24 spline, same as the 24 spline at the diff end.
We have used the same proven materials as our other shafts and CV"s, ie 4340 for the shaft and CV outer and 300M for the cage and inner."

"In addition to our normal HD D2 front shafts which are made of the 4340 material we have made a limited quantity of these shafts in 300M material. This 300M is in theory only about 20% stronger but is much more elastic, we have also reduced the main shank diameter down by 2mm to ensure the whole shaft can flex and we have no stress concentrations at the spline ends. These are more expensive at ? 825/set and are aimed at the Rally Raid customers that cant afford a shaft failure mid race."
.........

So you can see from the above and previous pics the CV in the D2 is massivly stronger than the rover style so thats a big plus, you also get the 300m shaft option which is 20% stronger than the 4340 D2 shaft which in turn is no doubt is stronger than the rover shaft due to being able to fit a bigger shaft into the open knuckle D2 CV

I think you will find that the limiting factor isn't the CV, its still the axle that will break first, even if it is 300M. The Rover (nonABS) CV isn't too different to a Longfield, they're made by the same company. They both fit in the Rover swivel housing and the Rover was developed as an evolution from the Toyota Longfield - I would go so far as to even guess the differences are the outer axle specs (to suit Rover) and the star to suit Rover axles and these are strong enough to hold a 1.31" 30sp 4340 axle which would be similar in strength to the 300M Rover one.

Never the less, I would expect a D2 axle to go under easily with the normal fabrication. Perhaps using a Salisbury ball joint mount at the rear to make life easy. My only question would be if you'd get bumpsteer due to differences in the panhard and drag link lengths - I've never compared.

Originally Posted by Slunnie

I think you will find that the limiting factor isn't the CV, its still the axle that will break first, even if it is 300M. The Rover (nonABS) CV isn't too different to a Longfield, they're made by the same company. They both fit in the Rover swivel housing and the Rover was developed as an evolution from the Toyota Longfield - I would go so far as to even guess the differences are the outer axle specs (to suit Rover) and the star to suit Rover axles and these are strong enough to hold a 1.31" 30sp 4340 axle which would be similar in strength to the 300M Rover one.

Never the less, I would expect a D2 axle to go under easily with the normal fabrication. Perhaps using a Salisbury ball joint mount at the rear to make life easy. My only question would be if you'd get bumpsteer due to differences in the panhard and drag link lengths - I've never compared.

So what your suggesting is to maybe keep the Ashcroft CV in the Rover housing and broach it to 30 spline, run custom hi tough 30splines?

Panhard can get adjustable, drag links are adjustable or can be bought in D2 spec

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Still wondering about the original question if anybody knows?

Has anyone put a D2 front diff into a RRC and managed to keep the RRC bolt pattern?
Can it be done?

The only other way im thnking is to switch to d2 bolt patern put d2 front housing in with d2 bolt pattern and change rear hub to D2 with stock RRC rear housing, is that possible?

Originally Posted by blackrangie

So what your suggesting is to maybe keep the Ashcroft CV in the Rover housing and broach it to 30 spline, run custom hi tough 30splines?

Panhard can get adjustable, drag links are adjustable or can be bought in D2 spec

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If you want to run 30spline, then it is worth investigating if a Longfield 30spline star will go into it rather than broaching. Then you would need to look at the diff end also and if there is enough material to broach, then to do that also. Its important to have consistent diameter for the full length of the axle so that the forces are spread evenly through the shaft, so not a 1.31" axle with a 1.24" end on it and the other way around gives you no advantage. What I would do, is leave the CV alone, leave the diff alone and have 300M axles made and you will probably end up with a similar result to a 4340 axle in strength but with better shock force absorbtion which might help protect the driveline (ie the Rover CW/P). It'll also save you a lot of time, money and fabrication. For the rear, same.

If Ashcroft/HTE etc don't/wont/cant do the axles in 300M then just go direct to the manufacturer who do deal with the public.
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Re Panhard/Draglinks, its not about the availability or adjustability, it's more about the matching fit and the links being similar so when the suspension cycles that the steering doesn't turn despite the steering wheel not turning - this is due to the axle moving on a different arc due to panhard location when compared to the steering which also needs to move on a matching arc. If you're fabricating already then you can also fix this at the same time.