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Def go with Benji's kit over a gigglepin setup...keep it local, and its every bit as good, and my opinion much better.
Links come in at just under 1m long and made from 50mm 7075 solid ally bar (same as what youl find on the likes a rig competing at Tuff Truck).
The new chassis bracket fits to the underside of the chassis, along with a brace. Also incl in the kit is new tabs for the axle end.
7/8 Heim one end, Patrol bush at the other.
From memory, i think the set is $980ish
thanks guys. Im not really a fan of that style. IMO I dont think that design suits the thin wall , tall LR box chassis.
you dont think the LR chassis will take well to running a chassis mount like Benji's, or the gigglepins?Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
Benjis.
Welding that much to the bottom flange I dont think is good., I know its got a top/inside brace but again where it attaches is not ideal.
The giggle pin is not too bad imo. I think it could be a little better at the top. The LR factory mount is very good for spreading/transmiting the load. Yes its a bit of a hang up.
Benjis is lower but should flow over rocks etc due to its design. Just dont like the thick steel to thin steel of the LR and mostly to the bottom flange and corners which has the most stresses.
Just my IMO and Im no engineer thats for sure
I can vouch for Benji's work..he's definitely in the top handful of offroad fab guys in aus...some would say the best...and his stuff stands test, with many of his builds competing in Tuff Truck etc(not that gigglepin gear dosnt stand up to abuse..though i know the British Offroad Winch Truck broke one)(In saying that..anything can be broken given the right circumstances!)
This is a guy who builds full tube crawlers as well as crawlers running full chassis. He knows a thing or 2 about chassis strengths and weaknesses. He'is also the only guy in Aus who is visibly always plating chassis' in his customers builds..and sells a large range of chassis plates for various trucks..for the places that each has its unique weak spots.
His long arm kit brackets sit under the chassis yes...but this also has the advantage of placing the arms at a more horizontal orientation...which is desirable for crawling.( Lower anti squat and lower roll axis figures)
The Ramp Customs chassis brackets actually are stronger by design also....most top 4x4 fab guys will agree
The gigglepin arms remind me more of an utra4 or speed event rear trailing arm design
The LR factory mount imho..is absolute rubbish..I've had to repair 2 customers mounts (one of which I added brace/skid plating.
Only good for med level of offroading imho ..sooner or later you will damage/bend/almost rip them off..if you havnt already braced/skid plated them.
I'm not bashing the gigglepin arms by any means..they are a top quality bit of gear.
Just my2c We all have different opinions..this is just mine. If we were all of the same views, the world would be a pretty stinkin boring place!
Anyone know what Gigglepin are asking for their arms out of interest?
its not his bracket that concerns me, or should I say the strength of his bracket, its how it attaches to the LR chassis and transmits the forces/loads.
There’s nothing wrong with the LR mount, as had been proven by the literally 100s of thousands that have not failed. The ones that have failed, have done so because they have been asked to do something they were not designed for. A LR is NOT a rock crawler. Big lifts big loads big drops and bashes is NOT what CSK had in mind when they designed it. What it does do is attach to the chassis with good engineering practices. My interest is not rock crawling in a LR. But touring and capable off roaring with a focus in onroad handling and safety. Longer arms are definitely a part of that for me. Just need to implement them in a way I’m happy with.
i think Wayne smith was the Aus rep for Gigglepin
id suggest anyone go to Rampt Customs facebook page again...and spend 2mins scrolling down...and then come to the conclusion that this bloke dosnt know a thing or two about chassis strength...and where forces are at play and attention is required when modifying your truck for HEAVIER offroad use. ( WHY on earth would someone be considering Gigglepin or other long arms, if they were not asking something more serious of their truck??)Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
100's of thousands of std chassis mounts have been tested and tried I agree. But this is not constant heavy heavy offroad use (some would say abuse)..which NO std defender is set up for! And when we are talking long arms were typically talking some sort of heavy offroad use...something they just are not designed for in std form.Quote:
Originally Posted by uninformed
I also agree with what you're saying though...they are being asked to do something in which they are not designed for to break or be damaged. In my relatively small circle, I have known 5 to be damaged in somewhat that needs repair, and that's just people I personally know. These are road-going trucks..not dedicated crawlers or comp trucks.
Im lost as to what sort of advantage long arms will provide you for a touring rig..the changes in rear suspension geometry with a lower anti-squat will make no noticeable difference on road..and unless your truck is really built for offroad will provide little benifit. A lower roll axis will not really provide too much benefit until things get really interesting offroad... the Gigglepin arms are not even going to lower your anti squat by anything worth mentioning...so the only advantage is strength and almost eliminating your flex steer under suspension drrop if your running long shocks.
IMHO youd be FAR better to invest your money in a DFI or Currie offroad torsion bar swaybar and have it custom fitted if saftey is the goal...as well as the benefit of improving the offroad handling and predictability of your truck.
You see rovers everywhere flexing like crazy at the rear..but nothing happening up the front...this really is no good in terms of your trucks ability and handling offroad.
The problem is obviously the front of any radius arm'ed truck is the front axle housing is acting as a big torsion bar, and the rear has no torsion effect to deal with.
By adding torsion effect to the rear via an offroad swaybar that CAN still flex like the best of them, whilst introducing some torsion effect to the rear will force the front end to actually start working.
Running a rear offroad swaybar was the BEST thing i did to my trucks suspension setup when I was running std Rover radius arms, the difference both on and offroad was amazing.
also worth noting..any long arm kit will require an engineer to sign off on it and a mod plate issued. Im pretty sure in most states this would be at least $600
In Qld its generally 750ish for the first mode and 50-100 for each mod you want to be inspected/plated thereafter