Rotating the swivels wont though, the case stays where it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by tombraider
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Rotating the swivels wont though, the case stays where it is.Quote:
Originally Posted by tombraider
its better to have the diffs slightly rotated...which the lift does for you.....as this reduces the angles on the unis a bit......
but this then throws out the caster angles which are corrected by rotating the swivel hubs.....
this also gives you adjustment on your caster where as it was previously a fixed angle.....
but....as i said earlier......it does affect the oil level slightly......may not be enough to bother with......i dont know......but it will lower the oil
level a bit......
Whats an oil level, is that the stuff all over the garage floor :p :p :p
We are still talking about land rovers right??
yes.....still talking land rover......
you need to keep them topped up or they will stop leaking......
Which in turn throws them out of their correct (not that LR diffs are correctly aligned) alignment inducing increased wear and vibration.Quote:
Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK
LR due to incorrect Uni alignment runs a semi phased front shaft on D1-RRC-DEF and a DC front on the D2 to overcome this shortcoming.
Lifting any of the aforementioned will often induce NVH.
Phil doesnt have that issue, so a simple adjustment of the swivels is a perfect solution to his woes.
Its sound engineering...
Looks good to me, the only thing I would have done would be to tig up the holes first and then redrill them but then you don't have adjustment.
There is nothing stopping him from drilling in a couple of reasonable sized solid locating pins or the like, I have some here that are cat 3 that have a 2 tonne sheer rating each and are only 5/16" diameter.
I don't see a 2 tonne landy damaging 4 of them e.g.2 each side after the wheel alignment is correct.
By the way you can get them at any tractor implement supplies that sells Lely equipment, they are actually sheer pins for 120hp PTO drive clutch.
Failing that a couple of decent Mig welds after the alignment will fix it but is a bit bodgy.
I like it I don't think it is a problem.
THEY WONT MOVE:
Michael.
No offense but they should be done in a mill and the slots should follow the same radius as the rotation, his slots are straight not curved as they should be, if the holes are oversize it will be sloppy and possibly dangerous.
no offence but how the f%$K can you tell that from a photo??
geez b4 i buffed the marking out off the face you could have seen that the slots actually DO follow a radius!
i am a trade qualified fitter/machinist. i do know what im doing.
this post was for the people sitting at home who like to fiddle with there own cars that want to save a bit of money, basically to show them it can be done with minimal tools etc....
Quote:
a couple of decent grub screws will prevent that happening......after the alignment has been done
i will do that after the allignment.
though straight after it was finished i did several brake tests at 60 and 90k's with and without the abs!
so far nothing has moved. and i dont think it will.
cheers phil
IMHO, slotting the swivels is better than castor correction radius arms or castor correction bushes. Better still, but more work, is welding the holes and re-drilling.
I'm sorry, but I have known a lot of fitters and machinists, but none that know very much about bolted connections, particularly for connections subjected to cyclic loads that lead to fatigue failure (such as the bolts that hold the swivels to the axle housing).
Slotted holes reduce the fatigue strength of bolts, and in this application, should only be slotted just enough for the castor correction. Fitting a thick washer (say about 4 thick if possible) under the bolt head will help to restore some (if not all) of the fatigue strength).
An excessively long slot, where the bolt is not at one end of the slot may be pushing your luck, and not worth the risk IMHO.
If you want me to explain why the fatigue strength is reduced, I can try, but without diagrams it will not be easy and the concept can be hard to understand. It involves the ratio of the stiffness of the bolt to the stiffness of the joint. The stiffness of the joint depends upon how the compression from the bolt pre-tension is dispersed from the underside of the bolt head/nut (which is adversely affected by slotted or oversize holes).
Edit: Note, I am talking about the fatigue strength of the bolts, not the shear strength.