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Lambrover/Discowhite, did either of you drill a locating hole with a bolt thru it after you had got your angles right to positively stop any unwanted rotation? I've seen this mentioned on a Brit forum & wondered if you thought it was necessary?
Steve
nope,
the set on the disco have been on there for over 2 years now, been everywhere in that time, vic high country, fraser island, 3 trips back to QLD,,,and i drive/brake hard..if they were gonna move they would have by now.
its completely do able if your nervous about it, but not necessary in my view.
cheers phil
I second that discowhite, I have only slotted the holes and have no other bolts through it as I might want to go higher to 4 inch:twisted:, they haven't moved and i don't think they will.
before doing this mod the car was very twitchy and unnerving to drive but now it is alot more relaxed as you don't have to worry about keeping it in your lane.
I know this is an old thread but I am thinking of doing this to my county since I am looking at a 4inch lift because I believe it will be the more effective way to stop my steering issues so was just wondering could someone put up a few photos of what was done and the procedure ? after looking at the front end I think I may know what needs to be done but would just like some more detailed descriptions before I start machining :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
Can't get more detailed than this thread...:)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-t...ls-how-do.html
That thread gives good detail of how to fit up a pair of slotted housings that someone (such as LRA) has already machined, but no info on how to go about slotting the housings yourself. Unfortunately it also has a mystifying and confusing discussion about the totally unnecessary process of tilting your diff.
I've just done this mod from scratch in my shed with good results. I took a heap of photos of the jig I made plus the slotting process but due to software probs cannot post them at present.
If you search 'slotted balls' there is some good info.
I don't think it is totally necessary to get the caster exactly to spec, considering that a RR with EAS alters the caster angle at speed every time the front suspension raises or lowers.
That's helpful but I'm looking more for how to slot the swivel hub myself ...
I don't think it is totally necessary to get the caster exactly to spec, considering that a RR with EAS alters the caster angle at speed every time the front suspension raises or lowers.
It may be more of the other way around. The EAS is trying to keep the castor constant as the suspension goes up and down. The castor gives the vehicle directional stability. I would go to the trouble of getting a wheel alignment reading before you start. With your slotting, look for approx. an additional 1/2 a degree of positive castor on the lh side. Providing the camber is pretty much even side to side, this will stop the vehicle 'falling ' down the hill on cambered roads. Don't overdo the offset from side to side, as this could have a detremental effect on directional stability under severe braking. If the camber is out by more than 1/4 of a degree side to side, you may have to play with the offset. Your wheel aligner can help with advice on this.
Ha mate read my first post and that will give you the maths, so you move it the correct amount, I think it is about 1.3mm equals a degree, when measureing from the out side perimiter of the flange. I used hermaphrodite calipers to scribe three lines on the flange. measure in to the out side edge of a bolt hole, set your scribe up and scribe all the way around, then measure into the inside edge of the hole then do the center line as well. measure the bolt hole diameter, county is 3/8 and defender 10mm and half. measure from the edge of the bolt hole along the scribed centerline 5mm and center punch it, then drill it out. I used a die grinder to take the excess material out, stay within the scribed lines.Quote:
Originally Posted by c.h.i.e.f
before removing the swivels referance mark the flanges (I used a cole chisel) to the axle housing, when refitting measure up the desired amount from the axle housing referance to the swivel flange referance mark, I made the LHS half a mm more for the road camber. two years later I had the car at a wheel alignment place and the castor was spot on perfect so the maths works and the swivels didn't move.
Thanks lambrover that helps alot :) I talked to an engineer and of course they said they do not like the idea of doing this but he then said as long as there is sufficient metal left between the holes and some way of locking the hub to stop it swivelling under braking (a bolt straight through both) even though no one has had a problem so far.