Slotted swivel question

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Originally Posted by Graz

Has anyone had their swivels slotted in WA? If so who did the work?
I did a 3" lift on my D1 daily driver and had adjustable radius arm bushes fitted. It still has an annoying drive line vibration around 60 k even with stuffing around getting the front shaft balanced.
I am convinced slotting is the way to go though using a dye grinder sounds scary. A machinist and mill sounds the go.

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Dad slotted his with a die grinder, and once they were assembled again, ran a grub screw between the flanges to hold it in position. As long as you mark it out properly a die grinder won't be an issue.

Failing that I think the cheapest option would be to take them to a machining shop. Would require an indexing head and a mill, both tools a machinist shop will have, and should take about an hour to do the pair. Hell, I'd do them for ya at work for nothing but our indexing head is only a baby one - swivel hub won't fit.


Ben

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-my-balls.html

Cool seems that the swivels is the way to go. I am quite mechanicaly able but I will send them to LRA and get them done by them.

My problem is not a shake but more very touchy steering if you are not on the ball at hight speed it could be dangerous, I have just had my second knee recon and a mate was driving my car home and she had to have 2 hands on the wheel the whole time to keep it straight.

I did have some vibe problems but this will be fixed with a solid rear prop shaft conversion and servicing front drive shaft. I am slowly finding all the bits that the previous owner did not grease, eg drag link ends solid and to soak them in lube to get them off.

On another note what parts on my car should be regularly greased?
unis, tie rod, drag link, panhard rod ends?

Andrew

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Originally Posted by jazzaD1

did you do yours with a die grinder? or did you use a mill?

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From the thread Weeds linked:

Hi,

I did mine on a 74 RRC some time ago. Worked out how much extra caster I needed from the OL sticky (thanks HSV) and went from there with a slotting bit ($27 odd non trade) a jig, and a drill press.

Bolted the 'slotted' balls up to a spare housing using rusty oily bolts, checked the angles and filled the voids around the bolts with weld.

I am not a good welder, but all I had to do was clean up one surface a touch with a little grinder and they just looked like OEM. Did use thick washers under the bolt heads on reassembly.

Drives the way intended. Great return ( in driving pleasure) for time invested.

cheers, DL