Slotted swivel question

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Originally Posted by thrower78

How would you then solve the uni joint issue?
It seems that what ever you do it puts something else out of line

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Doing your swivels is the best method as it returns your diff to the right angle, hence reducing the angle on your uni joint. If yours is a daily driver (and it is the lift that is the problem) I would be getting the swivels done.

Angus

It is aligned, balanced, most of the other stuff is fine as far as I know the suspension place didn't say anything and I asked them to look at all that, doesn't mean they did. Steering seems to take longer to be transmitted to the tyres and is very twichy at speed one little wobble and you are fighting to get it back, you realy need to concentrate to keep it straight.

Is this caster?

Andrew

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thrower78

How would you then solve the uni joint issue?
It seems that what ever you do it puts something else out of line

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fit wide angle UJs and flanges.

the problem flange being the one up on the Tcase side of business when the shafts in the right way...

drop a line to RAR110 about what was found on the front of his deefer when the new front housing was installed.

Hes got the offset bushes.

It is my daily driver and I am just looking for the easiest way of fixing the proplem without causing a lot of other issues.

Andrew

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Originally Posted by thrower78

To add to my above post.
Everyone on here talks about slotted swivels as a cheap and easy to correct castor. By the time I send down the swivels and then get them installed when I get them back It will probably end up costing my $600 + (150 per side for slotting and at least 300 install)
Is there any problem with just using castor correction bushes? This would be closer to $200. I am here to learn if there is a problem with bushes please let me know.

Thanks Andrew

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Andrew
A few guys in the GCLRO club have done this and swear by it. Pm DRanged
I was told it was a lot more expensive than you mention above - where are you getting this done. I have a set of spare swivel hubs and was thinking of getting those done and then fitting but mine for more an off road use but does get the shakes sometimes (and I have replaced all bushes, damper, shocks, swivel preload etc etc.) with the wide tyres - ok with standard road tyres.

So very interested in how you go.
Skiboy

if your only getting it with wide tyres then its possabley the bearings and a road hammer issue with one of the wides.

Bearings seem ok - had it apart
Happens on two different set of wides - one brand new
Sorry did not mean to hijack Andrew's thread
If his an undulation on the road then can get the death shakes. Not as bad now fixed everything but still there.

Ute mainly off road and some comps so not a daily driver but of course want it safe.
Skiboy

Quote:

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Originally Posted by thrower78

It is my daily driver and I am just looking for the easiest way of fixing the proplem without causing a lot of other issues.

Andrew

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Then just get your swivel balls slotted. End of story.

One of the best things (if not the best) I did with my POS (lifted 2") and I did it myself. Your circumstances may differ.

As Tiger told Nike when they were looking for a new slogun: just do it.

cheers, DL

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Originally Posted by 350RRC

Then just get your swivel balls slotted. End of story.

One of the best things (if not the best) I did with my POS (lifted 2") and I did it myself. Your circumstances may differ.

As Tiger told Nike when they were looking for a new slogun: just do it.

cheers, DL

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did you do yours with a die grinder? or did you use a mill?

Has anyone had their swivels slotted in WA? If so who did the work?
I did a 3" lift on my D1 daily driver and had adjustable radius arm bushes fitted. It still has an annoying drive line vibration around 60 k even with stuffing around getting the front shaft balanced.
I am convinced slotting is the way to go though using a dye grinder sounds scary. A machinist and mill sounds the go.