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Thread: Slotted swivel question

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Slotted swivel question

    I want to get my swivels slotted to correct my caster.
    Insted of pulling the swivels off my vehicle and sending them down to LRA which would be propably a 3 week turn around with my only form of transport out of action for all that time.
    I can get hold of a second hand set of swivel housings very cheap in very good condition, I was thinking of sending these down getting them slotted then changing them over when I get them back.
    Can anyone see any problems with doing this?

    Thanks Andrew

  2. #2
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    To add to my above post.
    Everyone on here talks about slotted swivels as a cheap and easy to correct castor. By the time I send down the swivels and then get them installed when I get them back It will probably end up costing my $600 + (150 per side for slotting and at least 300 install)
    Is there any problem with just using castor correction bushes? This would be closer to $200. I am here to learn if there is a problem with bushes please let me know.

    Thanks Andrew

  3. #3
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    no problems with your first question, the second one.....castor bushes are crap.
    they reduce flex and will make the ride feel harsh.


    cheers phil

  4. #4
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    Ok I was hoping I could get away with the cheaper option, It is only a 2" lift (40mm HD front dobinson coils) and 4" of front bump stop clearence. But my steering is scary at times since the lift. I thought the slotted balls option was for the larger lift.
    Just about everyone I talked to said that I would not need castor correction with the lift I was putting in but it would seem that I do.

    Andrew

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I have a set of cranked arms (rovertym) available to suit upto 4" lift - $400.
    I rule!!!

    2.4" of Pure FURY!!!

  6. #6
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    I reccomend not using the bushes to correct the caster.

    correctly manufactured (not just heated and rebent) radius arms are the ultimate best bet.

    IF you want to go the slotted swivels way (and IVe seen a couple of versions I'm suitabley impressed with) I would suggest getting them sent off for modification and then for refinishing of the chrome on the ball.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    So Cranked radius arms would fix my problem and not have any bad effects on front drive shaft angles. My understanding is that they will return everything back to standard?

    Andrew

  8. #8
    Join Date
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    it will return the castor and king pin angle to normal but it will still leave your standard UJ's potentially over angling.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    How would you then solve the uni joint issue?
    It seems that what ever you do it puts something else out of line

  10. #10
    McDisco Guest
    Are you sure its your castor angle that is the problem? Check your panhard bushes, wheel bearings and steering dampener as well. I replaced all of these items on my Rangie (which has a 3 inch lift) with lots of bump stop clearance and it has made the steering quite tolerable. But then again, mine is just a weekend toy and not a daily driver.

    Angus

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