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Graeme, the new loom arrived today... 5 mins later... BINGO!! Well diagnosed, prompt response and delivery. A1 service. Last questions.
1) Where do most mount the control module? (not the dial).
2) for a disco 3 2009 should switches be all off or sw1 on
3) is there any need - advantage to doing the calibration to actual values?
I simply poked the D4's module just to the left of the opening where it seemed OK to sit on a small ledge. It didn't rattle or move about but it could be cable-tied somewhere if concerned, although that could make it more difficult to pull out if needed.
The later D3 switch settings have inadvertently been left undocumented as initially I thought they used the D4 calibrations but later shown otherwise so removed these D3s from the D4 settings without further comment. Any switch combination except the special RRS 15mm low settings is acceptable when calibrating using actual values.
The later D3s will require a calibration using actual values because no default calibrations currently exist in the module for MY07-MY09 D3.
PS. I'm pleased that the new loom overcame the problem. I will report on what's wrong with the original loom.
An option to allow the switch LED to be off when the ignition is off will be introduced when new wiring looms become available. People have queried if the LED should still be on with the ignition off but I like to see the LED even with the ignition off so don't use the option myself, having had a development kit installed in my RRV for some time. As a result of the necessary changes to the module and switch circuit boards and the switch lead, some minor enhancements to the switch LED's operation will be implemented at the same time. Replacements of the current versions of the switch will continue to be available as the new switch circuit boards can be configured either way. Indeed the new module and switch pcbs will be in use prior to the provision of the feature with the new looms.
Kits with the new looms will not be supplied until all kits with current looms have been sold including any DPL stock. If the new feature is required then don't purchase a kit until the new looms are in use, however the current loom stock of around 30 sets after existing orders may suffice for several months yet. The new looms, by the same manufacturer and identical to the current looms except for an additional wire, have only recently been ordered and around 3 months ahead of expectations but hopefully will be available by the time the existing looms are gone.
L494/L405 looms were produced with the extra wire so the option is already available for those vehicles.
Quote:
Originally Posted by puttysydney
I found that the module sits nicely where Graeme said and also on the other side of the opening. I just put a tab of velcro to keep it in place.
David
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/215.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/08/216.jpg
Here's a picture of the cause. The loom tested OK on arrival but wriggling the wires behind this connector caused a loss of contact on the wire whose socket is not in place due to an assembly error at the factory and only the 2nd that has occurred with this supplier.Quote:
Originally Posted by puttysydney
Attachment 113237
Just my luck :( The issue had the potential to escalate quickly. Due to your instantaneous response and support I didn't have a lot to be angry about. Thanks again for the follow up
Hi Graeme.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
Are the new kits available yet?
My D4 has just come out of warranty and I'm looking to buy one.
Martin
Sorry Martin, I still have quite a few of the current looms so it could be a couple of months before starting on the ones with the extra wire, especially considering this is normally a quiet time of year.
Thanks Graeme.Quote:
Originally Posted by Graeme
I'll diarize for 3 months hence and check then. It's mainly to help my wife in and out of the car by lowering the extra amount.
Martin
Hi Graham,
After having the battery disconnected for a few days to install DBS switch and moving a lot of wiring looms including LLAMS in the process of trying to find the damn lower panel clip that sprung into that area, with no luck yet, I have the following symptoms;
Minus 20 - no response
+30 - lowers by about 20
+50 - raises to +50
I am going to inspect all plugs looms etc again ( I think I heard that clip fall yesterday), but if I want to recalibrate, do I just follow the initial calibration sequence I used?
