LLAMS electronic height controller for D3/D4/RRS

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Originally Posted by weakestlink

compressor was about $850 plus install as I am slack:)

LLams has a interesting effect on my fuel use. Running up and back to Ballarat from melbourne on the weekend, Was crusing at 110kph I was reseting the Fuel usage. Running at normal hight into a stong head wind with my roof rack I was getting about 13.5 Litres per 100 km (Lp100km)
lowering using LLams returned an average of 12 Lp100km

Coming back was normal height 11 Lp100km and lowered with LLams 9.5 Lp100km.

LLams has advantages for me at time even when I am not getting very muddy:D

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Seems logical, the lower the vehicle, the less airflow under the vehicle, the less drag. Just be aware that running a D3/D4 at other than the height the vehicle was at when the wheels were aligned for long periods,( particularly on blacktop ) will have a detrimental effect on your tyre wear.

Graeme , recently bought 3 new LLAMS kits , fited two of them last weekend , (2006 and 2009 D3's)no Problems ,easy as ! For the calibration task ,Simply fitted the Reset switch and lead that comes out of any Desktop/tower Computer case , perfect 2 pin connection with push button (switch is Normally open with spring loaded return ) just taped it to the controller lead , now whenever calibration is required , just reach in behind and give it a press ., easy as ! Both owners commented that it was the best $550 ever spent on their D3's.

Thanks 400HPONGAS for the positive feedback. I heard that someone recently ordered 3 kits which prompted DPL to request some more. Be careful not to accidentally press the button with Llams OFF as this will start a new calibration. I've mounted a small button switch in the flexible web below the steering wheel where it is accessible to enable recovery mode but unlikely to be accidentally pressed.

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Originally Posted by 400HPONGAS

.. fitted the Reset switch and lead that comes out of any Desktop/tower Computer case , perfect 2 pin connection with push button..

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I've very recently started including a short lead with connector and miniature button switch. If anyone would like one, just PM me your address as the parts cost less than $1 (I buy in bulk) and the leads only take 10 minutes to make-up.

Tested it all out today, worked a treat, of coarse we had a couple of dumbarse moments, firstly when installing it and then not knowing which way it went for up and down, but we worked it out.

We had to put the switch at the front of the cubby box, the D4 doesn't have any other spot with enough room, but it actually looks quite good where it is.

The wire from the switch could be about 100mm to 150mm longer if mounting where we have it.

Thanks Graeme for your help with our seniors moment with the install:angel:

So all good now:D

Baz.

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Originally Posted by Redback

The wire from the switch could be about 100mm to 150mm longer if mounting where we have it.

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A 200-250 mm switch extension lead is ready for posting tomorrow.
I have just started making the switch leads 100 mm longer so hopefully these will be long enough if anyone else puts the switch in the same place.

I made inquiries about a switch label but didn't find anything that I thought would be sufficiently suitable. If the switch is operated prior to starting to calibrate, the LED soon reveals the positions for the various settings. However I obviously need to improve the instructions - anti-clockwise is to lower, clockwise is to raise.

I forgot to add this, we are getting a suspension fault (only normal height available) with the yellow triangle and the ! in it, it is coming up after using the Llams.

I notice in the first post about cycling the ignition, what does this mean:confused:
Is it just turning it on and off, before restarting the car:confused:

This morning it wouldn't clear and the standard height buttons would only flash and the car wouldn't go up or down.

Baz.

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Originally Posted by Redback

Tested it all out today, worked a treat, of coarse we had a couple of dumbarse moments, firstly when installing it and then not knowing which way it went for up and down, but we worked it out.

We had to put the switch at the front of the cubby box, the D4 doesn't have any other spot with enough room, but it actually looks quite good where it is.

The wire from the switch could be about 100mm to 150mm longer if mounting where we have it.

Thanks Graeme for your help with our seniors moment with the install:angel:

So all good now:D

Baz.

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Baz

Did you consider the steering column - down on the left where the electric adjustment would go?

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Baz

Did you consider the steering column - down on the left where the electric adjustment would go?

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No I didn't, that's where the driving light switch is going and we didn't want two switches there.

Baz.

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Originally Posted by Redback

I forgot to add this, we are getting a suspension fault (only normal height available) with the yellow triangle and the ! in it, it is coming up after using the Llams.

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Hi Baz,
Make sure all 4 ecu connectors are fully and evenly home, ie including ones not replaced with Llams connectors although the grey Llams one is often the culprit as its clip is not on centre so the plug may not be fully in at both ends. Also make sure the module loom connector is pushed right in and that the screws are even and not loose.

Cycle the ignition - yes, turn it off then on again.

Edit: Perhaps the switch cable being short is pulling on the loom connectors.