If someone is going to throw stones at other documents on the internet then they need to make sure their glasshouse is made from toughened safety glass.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
I'm not after clarification. Just pointing out that the internet is full of misinformation and no matter what the source is or how much of an expert he may appear to be is people should check the facts. One more document isn't going to change that.
My query was wrong anyhow as it was rightly said a horn would normally have a switched earth.
However the diagram also excludes a reference for a "fused" power supply to 85. How far do you want to take it?
Yes, misinformation is all over the internet, and here, apparently.
The fuse is used to protect the cable, not the device.
If I was designing the circuit, I would not fuse the relay coil. It takes such a low current I suspect the coil will blow before the wire's insulation burns. (Have you seen how thin the copper wire in a relay coil is? Much thinner than 0.5A fuse wire.) Besides, the horn is an emergency device. Emergency devices usually are a very simple circuit with minimal protection.
And why is the horn fused? When it fails, it is likely to draw a high current which may cause the cable to overheat and catch fire. Also a good reason to install a horn relay in modern cars with minimal copper used in the cables.
Gee and I just tried to point out that the wiring diagram as presented would have the horn sounding continuously. Small correction required.
Thankyou for that.Originally Posted by rat wotsit 2657939
Really happy now I've made your day Mick!!
This is a great idea. Thanks a million.
Hears one out of the blue for you: Given that there is so much unlike metal contact in Land Rovers and the inclination for their owners to immerse them in water, both fresh and salt, do you think that it would be A, viable and B, feasible to marinize the electrics.? i.e. make the system above ground earth.
Cheers, Billy.
Keeping it simple is complicated.
Depends on your Land Rover Billy. I don't think it would be viable to do it, but potentially doable in some older vehicles with a bit of work. Starter, alternator and distributor would be the hardest parts I think.
What sort of long term gains you'd get I don't know. Unless the contact areas stay continually damp I wouldn't have thought you'd have the same issues long term as a Ship would suffer.
Easiest way is to not take it in the drink - leave it in the car park - you've got a Tugboat for playing in the wet stuff.![]()
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Most of the corrosion on a land Rover occurs due to small local corrosion cells wherever water can linger for hours after a dunking. Put a splot of mud on a clean steel or ally surface and keep it in the damp and shade and see what happens. Stray currents from operation will be the smallest contributors to corrosion, with the possible exception of aluminium alloy radiators. I once had an old rust bucket where the door lamp switch was screwed to a tiny patch of sound metal surrounded by a much larger patch of rusted metal. I don't know if this effect was due to stray current or the plating on the switch but the effect was strictly local.
On a Land Rover, the best defence against corrosion between a steel and ally component is to thoroughy seal the join against water ingress or just make sure it dries out very quickly after dunking. Steel engine mounts on a cast ally block don't tend to rust out because the heat of the engine dries the joint out quite quickly.
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