Thread: Headlight Wiring Upgrade Kits

Defender loom fitted today. Noticeable difference in lighting output.

For now, I've not bothered with the circuit breaker supplied, as I've taken the power feed off the alternator to see how it works. Hence, a 6" cable run as opposed to a couple of metres back to the battery box, so not much in the way of wiring to protect!

If I notice a problem, I'll just add a new power wire back to the battery via the supplied circuit breaker.

Very neat job made simple by the kit - took under an hour to fit. Will grab a couple of pictures, though there's really not much to see except the relay on the nearside inner wing.

So to confirm no problems fitting the normal kit directly to a P38?

Originally Posted by Outlaw

So to confirm no problems fitting the normal kit directly to a P38?

It will be the best bit of wiring in it .

Originally Posted by loanrangie

It will be the best bit of wiring in it .

wiring???? p38's dont have electric's. p38's run on hocus pocus, bats wings and luck

in an effort to protect my new headlight switch i purchase an upgrade kit from traxide

great service Tim and the kit arrived only a day...maybe two after ordering, the bank transfer would have hardly cleared

just have to find time to fit it.....hopefully before my new switch burns out

Originally Posted by jik22

Defender loom fitted today. Noticeable difference in lighting output.

For now, I've not bothered with the circuit breaker supplied, as I've taken the power feed off the alternator to see how it works. Hence, a 6" cable run as opposed to a couple of metres back to the battery box, so not much in the way of wiring to protect!

If I notice a problem, I'll just add a new power wire back to the battery via the supplied circuit breaker.

Very neat job made simple by the kit - took under an hour to fit. Will grab a couple of pictures, though there's really not much to see except the relay on the nearside inner wing.

hey jeff

hows the connection coming straight off the alternator.....has it worked out OK

megs is going to geelong in a couple of weekends......i should be able to find a spare hour to install it

Originally Posted by jik22

Defender loom fitted today. Noticeable difference in lighting output.

For now, I've not bothered with the circuit breaker supplied, as I've taken the power feed off the alternator to see how it works. Hence, a 6" cable run as opposed to a couple of metres back to the battery box, so not much in the way of wiring to protect!

If I notice a problem, I'll just add a new power wire back to the battery via the supplied circuit breaker.

Very neat job made simple by the kit - took under an hour to fit. Will grab a couple of pictures, though there's really not much to see except the relay on the nearside inner wing.

Hi, for the sake of a few minutes, install the circuit breaker or inline fuse. It only takes a bit of rubbing on the wiring insullation and you can easily end up with an engine fire. As JD mentioned you are also likely to have a higher voltage or spikes resulting in a decrease in life of the light globes.

Erich

Originally Posted by weeds

hey jeff

hows the connection coming straight off the alternator.....has it worked out OK

megs is going to geelong in a couple of weekends......i should be able to find a spare hour to install it

Just thought I'd mention where I sourced my power from on the Defender 130.

I hooked up my power feed not directly at the alternater, but at a Fuse block that is in the engine bay (heavy duty fuses like 60A, not all 4 blocks used)... Just follow the main alternater wiring back about 2-3ft. I pulled apart the fuse block and added 2 heavy duty power cables with inline fuses to where the alternater power wire bolts to the relay block.

I did this for 2 reasons...
1) Looks: as the wiring follows the factory wiring.
2) Safety: the more wires you add to a vibrating hot engine the more can go wrong.

Edit: Forgot to mention, 1 Cable is powering my Lightforce 170 spotlights. No issues at all so far for about 4000km night travelling.