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Thread: 1st Traxide Discovery 4 specific dual battery kit

  1. #61
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Armidale, NSW
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    Hi Tim,

    Just waiting for my D4 (first 4WD) so in planning stage without a car yet so please put up with my possibly silly questions.

    Regarding the D4-5S kit. Is the cable that branches off the long run to the rear Anderson plug into the rear cargo area also 13.5mm (thinking cable loss here). I am asking so as to determine the future proofing of the wiring if a 2nd auxiliary battery in the cargo area was ever required. thinking that the 2 batteries would then be wired in parallel and the ABG-25 would come off the rear battery (if ever fitted/needed) and it would then protect both auxiliary batteries. I am also assuming both auxiliary batteries would need to be of the same type but not necessarily same amp/hrs.

    Also after reading the material on your website You recommend the Optima D34 Yellow top battery. Only 55Ah. Am I correct in assuming that this battery was chosen because of its physical dimensions - (space available under bonnet) hence the 55Ahrs. I know you say 90Ah capacity but I sometimes setup a basecamp and don't move/drive for days and I like cold drinks, though a 4WD might change how I do things (driving - not cold beverages). I know a solar panel would probably fix this issue but just asking so I can plan.

    Last question. I can see why your system performs better than a DC-DC charging unit from the alternator - kills it. But when I plug a solar panel onto the Anderson plug would a DC-DC charger with built in Solar controller be a better/good alternative to the solar controllers that come standard on panels. I have had someone tell me that they boost the amps and charge quicker - correct/false?

    All the best

    Laurie

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Queensland
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    Hi Laurie and first off, welcome to the forum.


    While my kits are a standardised setup, I offer customising when required, and I have a number of customers who have requested to have their kit setup to either have the auxiliary battery fitted in the rear cargo area or, like yourself, want to add an additional removable auxiliary battery, usually in the form of a battery box, in the rear cargo area.


    I charge around $50 for a 1m 6B&S extension to be added in the rear cargo area.


    The extension comes with a 50 Anderson plug and a 50 amp In-Line auto resetting circuit breaker, but the ABG-25 remains connected to the main loom.


    Keeping the ABG-25 connected to the main loom means that if you remove the rear mounted auxiliary battery, any other batteries being used to power accessories you are running in the rear cargo area, are still protected against being over discharged.


    Next, DC/DC devices are very inefficient at what they do. When running off your alternator, this inefficiency is made up for by the alternator producing additional energy to compensate for the inefficiency but is nothing more than a waste of fuel.


    When a DC/DC device is running off solar, this inefficiency is a lose of energy that can not be compensated for, so you loose some of your limited solar panel energy, just to power the DC/DC device and some brands of DC/DC devices are very inefficient when being used as a solar regulator.


    Dedicated solar regulators are usually far more efficient and this means less of your limited solar power is needed just to power the regulator itself.


    There is also another major advantage with using a dedicated solar regulator. If you have a caravan with solar on the roof, then while towing, the solar can be charging your batteries at the same time as your alternator is, and this will both shorten the drive time needed to recharge all the batteries, and it will mean a slight decrease in fuel usage.

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Armidale, NSW
    Posts
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    Understood. Thanks Tim, will see you after I find the right car.
    All the best,

    Laurie

    2019 sd6 SE
    2012 SDV6 SE (Son stole it from me)

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    5
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    Hi Tim

    I'd like to add one of your kits to my 2010 RRS, but it'll need a few mods/omissions if you're happy to modify? I have a spare D34 and a whole lot of Stinger 0 AWG cable, battery terminals, and distribution blocks that I removed from my Prado. I'd like to run the 0 gauge from the auxiliary battery to the back and then split to my fridge, inverter, amps, compressor, etc. The Sport will also be getting a bull bar and winch next week...

    Would you know if the 0 AWG single core cable would fit through the firewall? I'm not planning to run a negative to the back, but I'm assuming you run the twin cable to the rear purely for convenience? I would check it out myself but am sadly interstate so no tinkering for me.

    Given the single core 0 AWG through the firewall is a good idea, I was thinking the following package or similar would work:
    *Battery tray, bracket, J Bolts
    *USI-160 with ground lead lugged (and supplied with In-Cab Module)
    *USI-160 bracket/mount
    *Positive lead (35mm should be plenty?) from the starting battery to the isolator
    *ABG-25, without 30A fuse if possible?
    *Wiring from ABG-25 to existing power socket, and supply of new power socket

    I would then complete the setup with what i already have:
    *0 AWG (50mm) from the isolator to the D34 (dual 0 AWG terminals)
    *0 AWG from the D34 negative to ground (I also have a 0 AWG to multi 4 AWG ground distribution that I might use)
    *0 AWG to fuse block, and then through firewall to rear (either under rear seats, or below boot false floor)
    *0 AWG to fused 4 AWG and 8 AWG distribution at rear which will include distribution to the ABG-25

    Thoughts and insults always welcome!
    Thanks, Rob

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