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Well, there is no way that I would call the terminal posted by p38arover a crimp terminal.
As posted by others, they need to soldered after folding the part over the bare conductor. Also, to help prevent the solder "wicking" up the conductor, pliers or similar should be used as a heat sink on the part of the terminal folded around the insulation while soldering.
I did all three (crimp, solder and wrap) on all joints 10 years ago when I rewired my engine bay, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by loanrangie
Absolutely no regrets.
DL
It never ceases to amuse me to see how few people can crimp a connector properly, and resort to soldering to hide their poor workmanship. :p
I've spent the last 30+ years doing LPG conversions and associated electrics and crimped terminals form a reliable connection if done correctly, no soldering required, ever. Most importantly, both the terminals plus the tools must be of good quality, and the wire should fit the chosen terminal. If the amount of stripped wire doesn't fill the connector cavity, you either twist the wire to bulk it up or double it over. Crimp it until it squeaks and it'll never come off. Both the fully insulated and plated non insulated terminals work just fine without soldering. Thin plain brass female Faston connectors are a waste of time, soldered or not. Utilux used to make excellent non insulated plated connectors, I haven't been able to get any for a while. Some of the LPG gear I buy comes with little packets of suitable plated crimp connectors and none of them ever get soldered as they don't need it.
As for soldering, I tend to reserve that for joining wires inside harnesses, where the wire is fully supported by the neighbouring wires that protect the joints from mechanical stresses. That and decent heat shrink. :)
Utilux used to make excellent non insulated plated connectors
Yes, they did. And they were solder terminals, not a crimp tool in sight.
Is there a name for this tool or do you know where to get one ?Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
Well, I dunno. A hell of a lot of them were used in cars and electrical appliances, e.g., whitegoods, and they were never soldered. The ones I have are Utilux.Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Farang
I think I bought mine from Utilux. I think they are called Molex crimping tools. See http://www.overclock.net/t/1234028/a...-molex-crimperQuote:
Originally Posted by Debacle
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...016/06/450.jpg
The biggest problem with those sorts of ratchet crimpers .................. Is fitting them where you need them (in dashboards, around the motor etc.....).Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
I have the ratchet crimps for insulated terminals too. I can't say I really trust them. With the non-insulated terminal crimpers pictured, at least you can see the crimp to verify it actually looks ok :)
seeya
Shane L.
Quote:
Originally Posted by p38arover
HRHS - High Reliability Hand Soldering, joints were inspected under a microscope, no re-work permitted, joints that were not to specification had to be de-soldered and redone.
There was also a course called Mechanical Connections where looming and crimping were taught. In this course it was explained why correctly done crimp connections are better than solder for joining wires.
Pretty easy with flux and temp vaguely OK. 25x stereo shows if OK (10x headset for non life critical). Key thing is avoiding fatigue at the end of the wicking and that can be difficult. Fixing and Shrink tubing are the key here. With Instrument Cable (eg 256 x 0.05mm wire) 5 sets of graduated shrink tube out to 50mm is OK for non life critical situations.Quote:
Originally Posted by Geedublya
[/QUOTE]There was also a course called Mechanical Connections where looming and crimping were taught. In this course it was explained why correctly done crimp connections are better than solder for joining wires.[/QUOTE]
They are better in that the wicking is avoided so not so tricky in terms of support to avoid fatigue BUT it is a cold welding process so:
- Ensure no oxidation, like not that old conector in the box and throw out the foot (or more) of old wire
- Need about 100 Kpsi so right tool ($ hundreds/thousands?) and for that cable/connector the right die ($ hundreds).
NOW what is used for ABS and electronic stability (the computer takes over the steering) etc. Of course any RHOS components should not be used for any computer stuff (life critical) although maybe not too much of an issue soldering general automotive wires with no ecu/can involvement.