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Thread: Cordless recovery-repair kit

  1. #1
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    Cordless recovery-repair kit

    Well this is my latest thinking write or wrong to get me out of the poo in remote locations, or the well beaten path for that matter. Just need to practice the welding now.

    Went the 12v range as they are small and light compared to the 18. They have Lithion 1.5 and 3Am batteries so also are reasonably gutsy. And can charge the batteries with a 300W inverter. Probably had too big a rush of blood buying a right angle drill and the rotary grinder thing. But so be it. The grinder only comes in an 18V variant.

    Picked them up from Get Tool Direct. Good pricing and they are willing to do custom packages. Freight was also very fair.

    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  2. #2
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    buy yourself a dud battery, hook a couple of long 10mm2 wires into it add a fuse at the same rating as the batteries nominal amps out rate and put a pair of alligator clips on them, hook them onto the 12v battery when your desperate.

    I do rate the right angle drill and the die grinder... First time you pull them out to deck and drill a snapped bolt prior to easy outing to replace a manifold your attitude will become " I am sooo glad I bought these."

    Buy the abrasive pads for the die grinder and the flapping wheel adaptor and it will hold its own for about 70% of the jobs youd use a grinder for and its a lot easier to get in place.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
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    Thanks Dave, to connect two batteries I've made some leads from an old Landy earth wire, they are about 400mm long. For the business end I'm pinching the long leads off Dads stick welder. Didn't think of fusing anything so will look into that.

    It's on the list to now go to the tool shop and pick some grinder wheels and heads for the rotary tool. I'll grab a glass for a welding mask too.
    I think mounting the glass onto a pice of card board with a hole cut init will suffice as a mask.

    Might look at a small heli-coil set, and a Tap and Die set too I guess.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  4. #4
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    The insert for an auto darkening glass is now cheap enough to warrant looking into getting one of those and it will cover you for grinding and all forms of welding.

    I didnt mean for you to connect the batteries for welding, I was refering to if you have to power up the tools for long jobs and dont need to be cordless or if the rechargable batteries a flat/blown/wont recharge.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    ..................... to connect two batteries I've made some leads from an old Landy earth wire, they are about 400mm long.

    For the business end I'm pinching the long leads off Dads stick welder. Didn't think of fusing anything so will look into that ..............................
    .

    Don't know what you're getting at here, why would you want to connect two batterys

    No need to pinch your Dads 35mm welding cable, crikey, way to big, heavy and unweildy. As Dave said 10mm is more than enough. Get yourself a dud battery from somewhere, cut out and throw away the guts and solder the cable onto the contacts with aligator clips/plug on the other end and 'bobs your uncle'. But welding cable , a bit over the top.

    Deano

  6. #6
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    2 12v batteries in series with a good solering iron nib, a filed smooth 20c piece and a medium weight hammer do make a workable spot welder.... (if the batteries can deliver the amps)

    I think hes mistaken the intent to be able to weld with batteries with using the car battery to power up his 12v gear.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Has Google failed me


    I'm not trying to power the dam cordless tool with car batteries. Crikey Dave, I am dumb bit that's a bit hard core. The cordless tools are to compliment a difficult repair regarding steel and welding if the need arises.

    I do have a long set of jumper leads that I may as well use. Just thought the electrode would be easier in a proper hand piece instead of the bodgy alligator clamp.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by newhue View Post
    Has Google failed me


    I'm not trying to power the dam cordless tool with car batteries. Crikey Dave, I am dumb bit that's a bit hard core. The cordless tools are to compliment a difficult repair regarding steel and welding if the need arises.

    I do have a long set of jumper leads that I may as well use. Just thought the electrode would be easier in a proper hand piece instead of the bodgy alligator clamp.

    trust me, I've been down this road, in about 18-24 months time you'll be asking yourself why does replacing the battery cost more than 3 of the tools in "skin" condtion. at least because your system is 12v nominal you can do the manual conversion to corded for use in the field.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by DeanoH View Post
    Don't know what you're getting at here, why would you want to connect two batterys

    No need to pinch your Dads 35mm welding cable, crikey, way to big, heavy and unweildy. As Dave said 10mm is more than enough. Get yourself a dud battery from somewhere, cut out and throw away the guts and solder the cable onto the contacts with aligator clips/plug on the other end and 'bobs your uncle'. But welding cable , a bit over the top.

    Deano
    Am I missing it,

    I make of your post, I will end up with an empty battery box, with 10mm cables soldered to the terminals. This will be just a storage box to carry the leads but they will be per attached to the terminals.

    is that all you are saying.

    I then power it with something else.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    trust me, I've been down this road, in about 18-24 months time you'll be asking yourself why does replacing the battery cost more than 3 of the tools in "skin" condtion. at least because your system is 12v nominal you can do the manual conversion to corded for use in the field.
    So what's the alternative for welding?

    Don't worry about the tools. I'm not interested in powering the tools from the car battery. The tool charger can cover any flat tool batteries.
    Jason

    2010 130 TDCi

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