Reply With Quotegas less tig?
wonder how that works.....
Master
I have recently bought one of these:
OZITO 130 AMP INVERTER WELDER -
The arc welding set up is straight forward and I have been cutting my teeth welding wise.
the reason for my post s that I cannot for the life of me work out how to set up the welder for TIG, the destructions are not much help and given OZITOS relationship to Bunnings their website is next to useless.
It claims to be able to do gas or gasless TIG.
Any assistance would be much appreciated.
John
SysAdmin (Owner)
gas less tig?
wonder how that works.....
2007 Discovery 3 SE7 TDV6 2.7
2012 SZ Territory TX 2.7 TDCi
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YarnMaster
SupporterIm nearly certain it can do "gasless TIG" note that there is no mention of actual welding!
Its called vaporising tungsten inc.
But seriously. The ozito will be like BOC et.al inverter units.
They are capable of DC lift arc or scratch start TIG.
No AC and no functionality for current control or gas pre-post flow
BUT scratch start is still very useful methodology with practice.
Theoretically you will be able to TIG weld ferrous and stainless steelss as well as brass/ bronze etc but not aluminium.
You will need a TIG torch with manual gas valve on the head.
You will need Argon.
The technique will be DCEN (DC electrode negative) so plug the TIG torch into the negative and "earth" clamp to positive.
Switch the unit from MMA to TIG or whatever the ozi has.
set up your tungsten stickout, rest tungsten on the work piece, turn on unit, start gas flow, as you lift the tungsten off the workpiece the arc will strike and you are welding.
I have a BOC 130 MMA/Lift arc jigger. I use the TIG setup for stainless work and have also used it to chase cracks in diff housings etc etc. Nice pin point heat source and you are going to grind out the crack afterwards anyways.
s
'95 130 dual cab fender (gone to a better universe)
'10 130 dual cab fender (getting to know it's neurons)
Wizard
With your TIG it is a lot easier to learn on thicker steel first - 3 or 4mm thick prior to trying your hand at thinner material.
You want your steel to be SPOTLESS, no paint, rust, oil etc. TIG is fussy at what it will let you weld through (worse than MIG).
Also with your steel keep your gaps to a minimum when using TIG actually touching is best. The thing I like the most about TIG is if you have your steel touching a lot of the time you will use very little to no filler rod.
TopicToaster
SubscriberLooks like it has a standard CK 17V style TIG torch (can guarantee not an original). Good news is parts are plentiful for them. Stick with a red tip Thoriated tungsten in either 2.4mm or 1.6mm and you'll be fine. The funny thing is the blurb on the web for this machine says its ideal for aluminium (amongst other materials)
The Connection to the machine is likely a 25mm2 dinse style plug. DCEN as others have said, using welding argon approx 7lpm flow rate.
Just follow roverrescue's recommendations, and flick the machine into TIG mode using the front switch and git'er'done.
-Mitch
'El Burro' 2012 Defender 90.
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