2 post hoists - clear floor or not

**aussearcher** · 21st August 2016, 06:14 PM

Steve,
I have a old two post screw hoist with the cross piece across the floor. Bought it second hand for next to nothing and it has given sterling service for over 20 years. I have the luxury of a large shed so the cross piece doesn't usually cause much problems with 4WDs - I can wheel heavy components in under from either end, and out around the post on either side. Where it is a pain is if you have a lowered car (in my case, a racing MGA), which is difficult to get over the cross piece without grounding the front valence, and the MG has to be jacked up to get the arms under, as the minimum height of these is set by the cross piece. I suspect that with models that have the cross bar at the top the arm minimum height from the floor would be significantly lower - but not an issue for a County!

One thing to check though is height. You mention that your walls are 3.6m and I'll presume you have a pitched roof. I have a friend's Series 3 with a cab up in the air on my hoist at the moment and the top of the cab roof is 3.5m above floor level - so the cross bar would have to be higher than this. I can walk under the S3. If you County is 2.4m with the roof tent on (about the same as my D1 with a rack on) make sure that whatever lift you buy is going to allow you to work under the car comfortably - which means being able to stand normally. The other consideration I'll mention irrespective of the type of lift you buy is ease of access. Ideally the centre line of the hoist should be on the centre line of the shed door. Landies don't have great turning circles and having to take 10 bites to get lined up properly is a pain!

No matter what you get though you won't regret it - I cannot imagine not having a hoist!

**steveG** · 24th October 2016, 11:02 AM

Dragging this up again as I'm currently getting the concrete done.
Just realised that I need to avoid having any saw cut in the slab through the area the hoist will be mounted in.
But having never used one I'm not sure exactly where it will be mounted...
I'm reasonably tight for space lengthwise in the bay (only 6m) , so depending on where it needs to sit relative to the vehicle might mean its not central for/aft in the bay.

Where does a defender sit relative to a 2-post hoist? Is it the vehicle CofG? If so, roughly where is that on a 110 or 130 (loaded/unloaded)?
Does it depend on the manufacturer or arm design at all?

Steve

**Not_An_Abba_Fan** · 24th October 2016, 11:21 AM

What I did with my Rangie is use a trolley jack under the chassis rail on the side. Use the centre point between the axles first and jack it up, whichever end comes up first, move the jack a bit the other way. When you find the point at which the side comes up evenly, that is your centre point for weight distribution. Line your post up with that and as long as your lifting contact points on the car are the same distance from the centre point, the weight will be evenly distributed between the front and rear.

**Vern** · 24th October 2016, 09:18 PM

Steve, the arms on my hoist are different lengths, so have to be the correct way around if the car is to go on forwards or backwards. Hope that helps

**Defender boy** · 24th October 2016, 10:14 PM

Hi Steve.
My hoist at work is a Tekalamit and vehicles always sit way back on it due to its design with unequal arms. However whenever I put my 130 on a equal length arm hoist, the post of the hoist is approximately in line with the front door handle. Hope this is of some use.

Sent from my SM-G900I using AULRO mobile app

**Not_An_Abba_Fan** · 25th October 2016, 10:34 AM

As above, if your hoist has unequal arm lengths, the short arms go to the front of the vehicle and the vehicle sits further back on the hoist. My method of finding the centre point of the car works when the hoist has equal arm lengths as mine does.

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