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Thread: Four stroke brush cutters , Sthil or Honda ??

  1. #21
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    OK, forget what I just said. I messsaged the bloke that spent the most time on the Bushy to ask him what it was powered by and he wasn't sure but he did tell me that it was a 2 stroke.

  2. #22
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    I've never used a Stihl 4-mix but you do need to use a really good two strike oil, at least a JASO FB/FC, preferably an FD and Stihl's Ultra 2 stroke full syn oil was developed for it as ordinary oils were coking the valves and causing massive issues in the early days.

    I've used the Honda extensively, as well as Stihl's big pro two strokes and I loved the torque of the Honda.
    It really surprised me.
    It was the ex's choice as she used to use the brushcutter probably more than me and she didn't get on with the Stihl's at all.

  3. #23
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    I have never touched a stihl ... so cannot compare.

    I have GX25-based Honda brush cutter and blower.

    The blower was becoming problematic ... rather than getting it serviced, I bought a $8 carby from ebay, you only have to undo 2 bolts to replace it, prime it up, and back in business. I was happy with the DIY simplicity of that. Perhaps the Stihl is just as simple ... if not it may be a consideration???

  4. #24
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    Four stroke brush cutters , Sthil or Honda ??

    Quote Originally Posted by Stuck View Post
    I was thinking that there'd be more than 1 model of Honda engine in use both within and outside of the "Honda branded" range or given that it had a blue cowling, maybe our old Bushy was powered by something else.
    The blue cowling is their 2 stroke range. The catalog says they’re made in Japan but I can’t see a mention of the engine manufacturer.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
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    '56 SI Ute Cab


  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick130 View Post
    I've never used a Stihl 4-mix but you do need to use a really good two strike oil, at least a JASO FB/FC, preferably an FD and Stihl's Ultra 2 stroke full syn oil was developed for it as ordinary oils were coking the valves and causing massive issues in the early days.

    I've used the Honda extensively, as well as Stihl's big pro two strokes and I loved the torque of the Honda.
    It really surprised me.
    It was the ex's choice as she used to use the brushcutter probably more than me and she didn't get on with the Stihl's at all.
    I use the Sthil 50:1 oil in my chainsaws.
    Oil and fuel have changed a lot over the years. 9 times out of 10 if a 2 stroke won’t start it just needs some fresh fuel if it hasn’t been running for a while.
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  6. #26
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    Four stroke brush cutters , Sthil or Honda ??

    Just found this one from DMC Mowers, it has the bigger 35cc Honda and it’s quite a bit cheaper than the Bushranger. Looks like a good option for $444 delivered.

    DMC 4 STROKE BRUSHCUTTER TRIMMER WHIPPER SNIPPER Honda GX35 engine commercial | eBay
    '88 County Isuzu 4Bd1 Turbo Intercooled, '96 Defender 130 CC VNT
    '85 Isuzu 120 Trayback, '72 SIIA SWB Diesel Soft Top
    '56 SI Ute Cab


  7. #27
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    Up here the order of tool preference is:
    - spray pack with glyphosate; otherwise if you've been lazy/distracted with other jobs and the grass has gotten away then
    - tractor slasher if you don't mind taking the trees out with the grass;
    - to save the trees then the Victa 600 if the grass is not more than two feet tall;
    - the Honda 4 stroke brush cutter with blade is brought in where the Victa 600 fails (or you're fagged out from pushing it) and the grass can be as tall and thick as you want.

    My first Honda 4 stroke blew huge amounts of smoke when brand new. Took it back, with vendor comments about a bad batch of machines where some cylinder coating for break in failed (?). Replacement Honda has worked well. Wasps can block the exhaust outlet, so check that first if not starting.

    Wear full face/neck protection if you can. I hit a start picket which took a tip off one of the blade teeth, hit me in the neck just mm from the jugular.

    When really tall thick grass is cut with a brush cutter there is a tendency for it to fall over and engulf the cutting head giving the grass leverage advantage and making moving the cutter difficult.

    Regardless of mechanical method chosen you then go back and fix all the damaged sprinklers...

    It's really funny to watch people tackle a paddock of full grown spear grass with the garden ride on, takes for ever, one thin slice after another. Next season they're usually hiring a slasher or bought a bigger machine.

  8. #28
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    A box of matches can do the job on the tall grass in a heartbeat
    You just have to be bloody careful and pick your day for the job.
    You only get one shot at life, Aim well

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  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by rijidij View Post
    Just found this one from DMC Mowers, it has the bigger 35cc Honda and it’s quite a bit cheaper than the Bushranger. Looks like a good option for $444 delivered.

    DMC 4 STROKE BRUSHCUTTER TRIMMER WHIPPER SNIPPER Honda GX35 engine commercial | eBay
    That looks like the one that I bought a couple of years ago.

  10. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by workingonit View Post
    Up here the order of tool preference is:
    - spray pack with glyphosate; otherwise if you've been lazy/distracted with other jobs and the grass has gotten away then
    - tractor slasher if you don't mind taking the trees out with the grass;
    - to save the trees then the Victa 600 if the grass is not more than two feet tall;
    - the Honda 4 stroke brush cutter with blade is brought in where the Victa 600 fails (or you're fagged out from pushing it) and the grass can be as tall and thick as you want.

    My first Honda 4 stroke blew huge amounts of smoke when brand new. Took it back, with vendor comments about a bad batch of machines where some cylinder coating for break in failed (?). Replacement Honda has worked well. Wasps can block the exhaust outlet, so check that first if not starting.

    Wear full face/neck protection if you can. I hit a start picket which took a tip off one of the blade teeth, hit me in the neck just mm from the jugular.

    When really tall thick grass is cut with a brush cutter there is a tendency for it to fall over and engulf the cutting head giving the grass leverage advantage and making moving the cutter difficult.

    Regardless of mechanical method chosen you then go back and fix all the damaged sprinklers...

    It's really funny to watch people tackle a paddock of full grown spear grass with the garden ride on, takes for ever, one thin slice after another. Next season they're usually hiring a slasher or bought a bigger machine.
    Have you been at my place ? Tractor with slasher (where slasher will fit) if not overgrown ... 2.25meter finishing flail instead of slasher.... and power/torque 2stroke super 600 ( cuts anythign you can push it onto). Last resort is that frustrating piece of **** Solo brushcutter ... Actually this has me thinking. I have my fathers big old 50cc monster sized brush cutter up in my roof. I might just chuck the Solo to the ****house and use that ( I can only use it for 10minutes before it gets too heavy for me ... but that should be plenty enough). It's big enough to turn a circular saw blade and cut down big gorse bushes in a single swipe.

    seeya,
    Shane L.
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