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Thread: Lathe and Milling Machine

  1. #1
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    Lathe and Milling Machine

    I dont know how I'd survive without these tools.
    Antique Primo Lathe & Chinese clone milling machine with TouchDRO

    Have saved myself thousands of dollars making my own parts for my builds.

    Here is the machinework involved in making my Series Landy disc brake conversion kits .
    Im self taught so how I do stuff might not exactly be the correct way but it works for me. (so far)


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    me too, I need a mill, or not but i have a Cazenueve HB575 a World class toolmakers lathe 12 hp from 1972
    i have 5 400 amp plus grunter welders. and a SP400 Twin pulse CIG a plate forming press and wheels
    I just bought a TOPDON DIAG TOOL reads 200 cars semi pro tool 1000 dollars, tell me abt your mill
    I run 3 phase from a 20 kva convertor , 240 single in, 400 out
    can now sell my Lincoln Vantage 400 welder/genset, please tell me 'bout your mill

  3. #3
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    Nice. A few seconds in, I thought you'd motorised your rotary table (a project on my list) then saw that you were hand-cranking it at about 5,000RPM.

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    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Excellent. I have a 1948 Myford lathe and would desperately like a small mill. Nowhere to put it and would have trouble getting the expense past the home office.

    I was given the lathe by the original owner and to be frank I own a few (wife would say *lot*) of tools, but nothing comes close to being as useful as the lathe. I'm glad he got to see it and some stuff I'd made before he went toes up (he was 96). He used it to "modify" a Francis Barnett 2 stroke (edit: motorcycle) to hold an Australian record. It spent the rest of its life in a lawn mower repair shop boring out Scott Bonnar clutch bodies before it was delivered to me as a pile of metal and mixed grease.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  5. #5
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    Lovely, innovative work there Don.
    In your first machining sequence, do you get any runout on the hub, by using a 3 jaw chuck? I was taught to use a 4 jaw chuck and mic it up to centre it more accurately than a 3 jaw self centreing chuck can?
    Cheers,
    Chris

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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    Lovely, innovative work there Don.
    In your first machining sequence, do you get any runout on the hub, by using a 3 jaw chuck? I was taught to use a 4 jaw chuck and mic it up to centre it more accurately than a 3 jaw self centreing chuck can?
    Cheers,
    Chris
    Certainly best practice, but it's amazing what one can get away with.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjc_td5 View Post
    Lovely, innovative work there Don.
    In your first machining sequence, do you get any runout on the hub, by using a 3 jaw chuck? I was taught to use a 4 jaw chuck and mic it up to centre it more accurately than a 3 jaw self centreing chuck can?
    Cheers,
    Chris
    That is true, the problem with the Landy hubs is they have more run out than what's required for discs so setting one up in a 4 jaw chuck isn't going to be much help, What Ive done is to tighten a dummy ring to the correct dimension in the 3 jaw chuck & hone the jaws, then I index the hub so it goes back in the same place , once done I assemble it with bearings and rotor and mount on a stub axle to check for runout, if its 0.05mm or less Im happy. if its out I mark it up and remount in the same position with an appropriate shim to kick it out and true it up. 0.05 runout is the accepted tolerance for disc rotors in the motor industry so should be plenty good enough for a Landy.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by goingbush View Post
    That is true, the problem with the Landy hubs is they have more run out than what's required for discs so setting one up in a 4 jaw chuck isn't going to be much help, What Ive done is to tighten a dummy ring to the correct dimension in the 3 jaw chuck & hone the jaws, then I index the hub so it goes back in the same place , once done I assemble it with bearings and rotor and mount on a stub axle to check for runout, if its 0.05mm or less Im happy. if its out I mark it up and remount in the same position with an appropriate shim to kick it out and true it up. 0.05 runout is the accepted tolerance for disc rotors in the motor industry so should be plenty good enough for a Landy.
    That sort of run out would be nothing compared to that of most landy wheels with tyres that hang off the hubs....
    Great work.

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