Thread: Trailer noob question

If you have a Reece hitch, get a lower mount insert for it to level it out.
If you don't have a Reece, get a Reece type towbar assy!!


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Easy if you have a square axle, but don't get delusions of granduer that you can then take it on rough roads unless it has proper shackle springs and not slipper springs.
Its not pretty when the axle turns right angles in the middle of nowhere because the centre bolt has broken or the U bolts have come loose and disappeared.
Regards Philip A

Firstly everything is possible!

A trailer should be towed with the tub and drawbar level to the ground. To achieve this in a 4WD most people have a drop in the ball mount, you can just as easily raise the suspension either by longer shackles (non-slipper springs) or doing a spring over.

All the components should be the same, irrespective of spring over or under. The one thing that happens with a spring over is that you then have greater upwards spring travel and this may be sufficient for slipper springs to escape the cage at the back end or for springs to invert - you may need to insert a bump stop between the chassis and spring.

Spring over or spring under makes very little if any difference to load carying capacity, however by raising the platform level of the trailer you are raising the centre of gravity making the trailer less stable.

If you do spring over your axle, you need to also reverse the spring centre pin so the nut is on the top and if you have brakes on the trailer you need to rotate them 180 degrees also.

After that you need to increase the length of the mudflaps by the same as the lift.

I have done a few trailer spring over conversions.

On a single axle unbraked trailer it is very easy.
On my tandem trailer with cable disc brakes it was a bit more work, but still quite easy. Good results with both trailers, sit level behind 4wd tow vehicles.

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Firstly everything is possible!

A trailer should be towed with the tub and drawbar level to the ground. To achieve this in a 4WD most people have a drop in the ball mount, you can just as easily raise the suspension either by longer shackles (non-slipper springs) or doing a spring over.

All the components should be the same, irrespective of spring over or under. The one thing that happens with a spring over is that you then have greater upwards spring travel and this may be sufficient for slipper springs to escape the cage at the back end or for springs to invert - you may need to insert a bump stop between the chassis and spring.

Spring over or spring under makes very little if any difference to load carying capacity, however by raising the platform level of the trailer you are raising the centre of gravity making the trailer less stable.

If you do spring over your axle, you need to also reverse the spring centre pin so the nut is on the top and if you have brakes on the trailer you need to rotate them 180 degrees also.

After that you need to increase the length of the mudflaps by the same as the lift.

I understand the spring centre pin, but why the need to rotate the brakes 180 degrees? I have elec drum brakes, don't need the lift as the trailer was built for (real) off road...just curious.

Originally Posted by wardy1

I understand the spring centre pin, but why the need to rotate the brakes 180 degrees? I have elec drum brakes, don't need the lift as the trailer was built for (real) off road...just curious.

Generally you have a leading and trailing edge on the shoes with drum brakes, depending on what type of actuation arrangement they have. Running them backwards can cause the shoes to lock the wheels as the leading edge gets pushed into the drum against it's rotation.

Cheers

Andrew



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Originally Posted by LOVEMYRANGIE

Generally you have a leading and trailing edge on the shoes with drum brakes, depending on what type of actuation arrangement they have. Running them backwards can cause the shoes to lock the wheels as the leading edge gets pushed into the drum against it's rotation.

Cheers

Andrew



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So are you saying that turning through 180 is needed or not?

Originally Posted by slug_burner

So are you saying that turning through 180 is needed or not?

You will do if both shoes dig into the drum. You may also be able to just swap the backing plates over after turning the axle 180degrees.
Even then it depends on which way 180 degrees is being defined, swapping sides left to right or rotating it on it's seat....
A lot of effort though when a simple spring lift or towbar change will do the same thing.....


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