Thread: Changing trailer wheels/stud pattern

Thanks for that , I looked at their website for interest and there is little info about their setup apart from a mention of trailing arms - so do they have an independent stub axles?

They also claimed to be able to handle most types and offsets (at a price I expect )

I am currently nutting out how to change my 6.5 PCD hubs to D2.
The problem is that my Campomatichas ALKO parallel bearing 10 inch electric brake drums . I suspect Kimberleyuse the same.
the outer bearing is large Falcon on these so the OD of the nose is AFAIR 72 mm.
I think the only way to do it is to have 1.5 inch adaptors made with 6.5 PCD t o 120mm. This gives enough depth to completely handle the large nose of the parallel hub and allow for the smaller pattern of the D2 or D3 wheels,and mean no mods for the wheels. If you were keen enough they can also be made hub centric, although my ALKO hubs have a roll at the base.
There is really not enough "meat" to machine the hubs down to D2 wheel hole size, and not much in the wheels either.AFAIK D3 is slightly bigger but not big enough to matter.
If you Google wheel adaptors there is a us site that does custom adaptors and one in Sydney . The Us one is reasonable , but I haven't priced the Sydney one yet.
I have all the measurements at home but not with me. I think you would need to start with a 6.5 5 stud ie old LR for this t o work.
regards Philip A

Originally Posted by Reads90

They have a factory in Yatala qld . Which has a sales counter

I went there and bought my stuff for my trailer direct of them.

Thanks Reads90, I'll check it out directly with them. Nothing beats dealing directly rather than through a middle man. They will have the answer to any questions I may have as well.

Hi 87 County
I have not been here for a while
a quick answer to you suggestion
the trailer has independent axles
would have gone solid if it could have been done
cheers
Ian

Originally Posted by Hoges

You can buy a set of universal wheel spacers from Autobarn for about $40 which should suffice.

...

Given the lack of an ADR specifically mentioning wheel spacers on trailers, I asked the Technical Branch of NSW RMS the question. Their answer came back that a trailer is a registerable vehicle and therefore spacers are illegal unless fitted by the original manufacturer.

Diana

Originally Posted by PhilipA

I am currently nutting out how to change my 6.5 PCD hubs to D2.
The problem is that my Campomatichas ALKO parallel bearing 10 inch electric brake drums . I suspect Kimberleyuse the same.
the outer bearing is large Falcon on these so the OD of the nose is AFAIR 72 mm.
I think the only way to do it is to have 1.5 inch adaptors made with 6.5 PCD t o 120mm. This gives enough depth to completely handle the large nose of the parallel hub and allow for the smaller pattern of the D2 or D3 wheels,and mean no mods for the wheels. If you were keen enough they can also be made hub centric, although my ALKO hubs have a roll at the base.
There is really not enough "meat" to machine the hubs down to D2 wheel hole size, and not much in the wheels either.AFAIK D3 is slightly bigger but not big enough to matter.
If you Google wheel adaptors there is a us site that does custom adaptors and one in Sydney . The Us one is reasonable , but I haven't priced the Sydney one yet.
I have all the measurements at home but not with me. I think you would need to start with a 6.5 5 stud ie old LR for this t o work.
regards Philip A

The D2 PCD is the same as that of the P38. They are also the same as a late(ish) model Holden Commodore (2010).

On this basis I obtained Alko 10inch electric brake drums (blanks) and had them drilled to the requisite PCD and inserted (new) front wheel studs to suit a 2010 Commodore (Holden dealer spare parts counter sale).

The said studs are the same diameter/thread as for a P38/D2 and take standard LR wheel nuts. I did not need to machine the boss of the P38 16" alloy rims which I fitted. The only issue is that the GMH -supplied wheel studs are 6mm too long in the non threaded part of the shank, because the Alko brake drums are somewhat thinner than Commodore ventilated discs... as would be expected. Therefore, although the wheel nuts reach the full extent of the thread, there is still some travel in the studs.

There are two ways to address this: one is to extend the thread further down the shank and trim the overall length of each stud by 10mm. The second is to place a suitably drilled solid alloy disc over the studs between the brake drum and its wheel.

On the basis that a brake disc or brake drum also acts essentially a wheel spacer, I fitted a universal 10mm wheel spacer between each hub and the wheel to accommodate the stud length. Works well. The nuts are correctly torqued without reaching the end of their travel and the wheel boss sits neatly over the axle end-cap with adequate clearance. The setup survived a bone-jarring trip up the Cape York PRD and elsewhere without anything falling off...

I appreciate the advice Lotz-A-Landies took the effort to obtain.
My camper trailer has a mandatory compliance plate fastened to the drawbar. It specifies the manufacturer as "home made". Which is true. That apparently makes me the "design authority" and as the camper trailer has been constructed using sound engineering principles, the use of 10mm wheel spacers in this instance is a reasonable engineering solution seemingly allowed for in this instance, under the NSW Regs. I never thought to seek approval in Qld

This is such a common issue with new Land Rover models and the limiting factor of the 1450Kg axle limit on falcon bearings. Perhaps it is time we contacted AlKo to see if they could manufacture an electric brake drum/hub to suit Discovery II>/Range Rover P38> PCD with bearing loadings above the 1450kg and hopefully above the 2000kg the same as the Land Cruiser standard.

I am pretty sure I have the answer for 38A, D2,D3, D4, RRs to ALKO 10 inch electric parallel hubs.

At least I hope so as I have just paid !

In a few days I should get 2x adaptors from UK which are for RRC to RRS including 10x RRC/D1 nuts.

I will have to grind off the centric ring , or turn it down to D2 but no change is required for D3 etc.

The adaptor is 40MM deep so will position my wheel 16 MM out from the current position which is ideal for me. D1 RRC backspace =33MM ,D2 =57mm . So 57-33=- 24 +40=16MM out. I have also checked this physically on RRC and D2 16" alloy wheels

FYI the ALKO hub is 77MM in diameter and 33MM deep not including the cap so the hole in the adaptor will fit over the hub. The cap should be small enough to fit in the hole in the adaptor.

For a D3,D4 RRS the drill will be to have the ALKO hubs drilled for RRC 6.5 with HD (9/16?) studs supplied , and you probably don't even need Land Rover studs as the ALKO UNF studs may be OK ,as the adaptor has steel wheel type nuts. You will have to make sure the slope on the nuts is the same as the adaptor and if not use LR 16MM studs and nuts.

You will have to take into account the 40MM depth to make sure the wheels fit in the guards.
I will post photos if and when it all works.

Regards Philip A