Thread: Van - Electrolux 3 way Fridge - She No Go

I have a domestic RM2355 smart fridge in my camper. It's very new but it works like a treat. 90 ltr. 80 ltr fridge and 10 ltr freezer. It automatically switches between 12v, 240v and gas based on what's available.

Loaded the ice tray into last time out, granted it was not hot but it froze the water in the tray in about 6 hours. It was set on 3 out of 5 and running on 240v. I have found it works better on gas.

Very happy with it so far but yet to really push it hard.

Still have the ollllldddddd engle 40 ltr in the back of the definer - can't kill them with a stick. But so far the smart fridge seems ok.

One good point to consider with these things that can't be understated. The adsorption fridge is silent. Nothing worse when trying t get a nice sleep is the sound of the fridge starting and stopping every 15 mins. Aggghhhhhh!!!!!


Cheers

Garry

The big problem with 3 way fridges is they need to be level, in fact in the electrolux user manual it recommending levelling the van more times than there are pages in the document.

The 3 way system uses a heat source (either flame or electric element) to operate. The refrigerant then circulates through a closed coil system by convection, if the fridge is not level the hot refrigerant sits rises to a high point and if left long enough will rupture. This is what happened to the 3 way in Gog - he now has an upright Engel 2 way.

Level the camper completely and see how it goes! Otherwise the heat exchange unit may have already ruptured and needs repair and refilling.

Diana

A desktop computer cooling fan mounted in a section of plastic drainpipe and aimed across the heat exchanger solved the issue for a cousin of mine.. soon had it "freezing"...

Originally Posted by garrycol

[snip]

I know about turning them over etc but as it is built in I would prefer to look at other alternatives first to try to get this thing going. Suggestions please.

[snip]
Thanks

Garry

If it's been standing for quite a while and you have never smelt ammonia (indicating a leak) it will have to come out and go through the mix up procedure

What happens is that the three constituents in an absorption refrigerator (IIRC ammonia, bromine and water ) separate/stratify when sitting unused for long periods which is why they need re-mixing.

I think I've posted the procedure on here before, (it's quite specific) I'll do a search.

Turn it upside down overnight, then try it again.

Baz.

I've heard you have to turn them upside down and take them for a drive over some corragations for a while to mix up the amonia?

hi
Have a look at this site there are heaps of stuff on fridges www.camec.com.au I have taken them out and turned them over and the results were not all that good, one worked for a short time but not very well and the other not at all.

The last one we replaced with a cheap 240v only bar fridge and used the Weaco as a back up. This worked out fine if you stay mainly in caravan parks. We turned it up full the night before we left and it was fine for the day while travelling if not opened too many times. A few mods, Strap to keep closed and a few r/a brackets to attatch it to the floor

This was the cheapest option (We were short of $ at the time). If I could I would replace the 3 way with a 2way uprite the Dometic catolog has a few to choose from. The 2way fridges are a lot better in hot weather. And a lot more battery / solar friendly. As mentioned they do turn on and off during the night but you get used to it.

The van makers often take short cuts when they install the 3way fridges , the venting is important and usually not done well. I had a site saved somewhere showing how they should be vented, but can't find it, Have a look on google Venting Van fridges. The 12v fans are also a good idea.

all correct..

the system relies on convection of a special mix of chemicals to function.

theres a few problems with this design.

1. the mix must be correct for it to work (conveniently the chemicals will "blend" but not "mix" so if you leave it long enough they seperate into their own groups, like diesel and water)
2. the fridge must be level
3. there must be adequate movement of air around the fridge to get rid of the waste heat (theres not a big range on the enthlapy of the refridgerant compared to what you get with a "compressor" style refrigerator) if the air heats up too much where it counts the heat source used to make it all work can turn your fridge into an oven (though this is quite rare)

the normal method of kick starting the process is to simply turn the fridge upside down for a while turn it right side up and then after a few minute turn it on.

if thats not an option you're left with the old faithful shake the buggary out of it, sometimes filling the fridge with cold things while you shake it up (a good drive on almost any of queenslands main roads will do nicely) helps

you dont have to get a perfect mix to get it started as once its started the normal flow of the refrigerant will keep it going and get it mixed up properly BUT you cant shake the fridge up or have it running off level during this stage (level is typically within about 1 degree). I rely on the Ice box to let me know if its started and once is has I will typically let it run for about 48 hours undisturbed. Like airconditioners once you have the thing working you should use it regularly to keep it working, letting it pull down once a fortnight or so is usually enough.

hope that helps.