Thread: Fridges in vans 2

Something wrong there, if I was closer I'd have a look at it for you.

I'd pull it out (the fridge ! ) and give it a shake up. (specific instructions to follow )

[edit] instructions here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1521199-post10.html (and further in that thread removal hints and performance after a shake up)

IIRC it was tip onto the boiler side first (the big vertical cylinder) and wait till you hear the gurgling stop, then tip onto the top, again wait till the gurgling stops, tip onto the other side, again wait until the noise stops, then tip back onto the top, tip at a 45* angle and shake it like all buggery, wait till the gurgling stops then tip back onto the boiler side, wait, then back upright.

Wait again until all gurgling has ceased, then turn on.

A mate of mine has a two way in his van and swears by it, hasn't had any troubles.

Just remember you will now have a compressor cutting in and out during the night........you might need a few more blondes to put you asleep

G'day Pedro,

Yes I also did the 240V element in my Dometic, possible power surge when at home, cost $212, from local caravan repairer. Fridge has to be removed from van to replace.
I am fairly satisfied with the Dometic.
You must have something wrong with the gas and 12V as mine works quite well on all 3 power sources.
regards,
Brian

Mine is a WIP. It was barely working even on gas even though the boiler gets quite hot on all 3 sources so pulled it out, tipped it upside down for a while then put it back - now it doesn't work at all! I'll try Rick130's sequence over the next few days so see if I can get it working properly.

I'd prefer a compressor fridge then a 3-way knowing what I know now, but even with 270w's of good quality panels that we already have I wouldn't be game to drive a decent size compressor fridge (at least 150 litres)and power the house battery's. If I added at least another 120w panel and larger battery's and a different regulator that separates the house battery from the fridge battery then I would have confidence that I had a good set up.

Most 3-ways don't work well because they aren't sealed up tight when fitted so the heat doesn't rise up through the heaxt exchanger behind the fridge. Sealing them up properly and making sure they are insulated well is a good start. Fitting a small extractor fan at the top of the fridge works well as will a small battery powered circulation fan in the fridge to get rid of the hot and cold zones.

I also have just added a external small awning that covers the area where the fridge is fitted when camping so the sun doesn't heat that area of the van during the day. It makes a real difference.

Next time round though I will get a compressor fridge and not bugger round with a 3-way.

cheers,
Terry

If it's a three way, leveling is critical, both ways, the coils need to rise evenly with no high spots, lest you get heat entrapment and potential for a rupture.

People will tell you that leveling isn't critical and that they have never had a problem but the fact is not leveling is a failure waiting to happen. My camper had a inherant lack of level for the fridge mounting and found out to my disadvantage.

So check your level both ways and see if it corrects the problem. 3-Way Refrigerators/ Freezers - Dometic

I now have a 2 way 240V/12-24V upright Engel.

just buy an engel...

you wont be sorry

Last day in camp,,
and the only let down has been the useless Dometic.
(big effort was made to level the van)
Very happy with the Golf Tourer GTX MKIII,,()
and astonished with the D2