Try a Tanami pro for jerry can transfer
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I carry a 250 L tank from a Freightlineron the draw bar of the camper I built. It's inside a box made of dexion frame covered with marine ply. The framework has no structural significance for supporting the tank
The tank is held in place with the original "strapping" as fitted to the prime mover with the cast fixtures bolted to two cross pieces welded into place and strengthened with gussets.
The tank was 6 months old when I bought it with all fittings and fixtures for a shade under $500. It's light enough to easily manhandle into position when empty... Came with the sender so I simply bought a 12V fuel gauge from a boat supplies. The calibrated gauge takes its power from a distribution board inside the camper housing 2 x 105 AH super charge "All Rounder" batteries hooked up in parallel
I fitted a Schraeder valve and pump in 4psi max with an ARB compressor. I then open a ball cock and ULP flows into the main tank through 4m of 10mm (ID) fuel hose. Takes about 15 mins to dump 70L. Depending on the external temp, I sometimes need to top up the pressure with a couple of seconds burst from the compressor. I never exceed 180L petrol in the tank when filling it. works well!
EDIT: Towing that lot to the Cape and back plus some touring... over 8,000km or thereabouts...overall consumption was a shade under 18L/100km. At a steady 90-95 on the highway it dropped to 14.5L/100km
Try a Tanami pro for jerry can transfer
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2003 defender 90- Gone
2014 Discovery 4 SDV6
1981 Stage 1 V8
In my shed I have a Facet pump with some fuel hose each end, a switch and some cable, to drain or refill tanks around the place. Jerries/tanks can be drained at ground level. Slow but easy.
Thanks for the infoI wondered about a Facet pump but got the impression that they were unsuitable for petrol but excellent for diesel... may have to reconsider!
Facet is a brand of lots of types of pumps.
cant go wrong with the rattler shuttle pump as long as gravel wont get caught in the ball..that might be why theuy have a pre filter.
john deer 5000 series has a wire mech filter in can form to strain the gravel in the diesel---"after the fuel pump".
i often fill cans with some diesel or kero to stop the rust with modern petrol.it doesnt pay to leave them empty.had a few rust from the inside out,more chance of water or rust or dirt contamination.
getting a few cans with the seal failurebut i like father inlaws US marine can with is large cap and filler tube..
tend to fill a plastic 20L oil container with long filler tube.then poor it into a car.the cans with the breather tend to fill quicker than the neck on most cars.,
Petrol is a great primer to get a diesel or sump oil fire going almost instantly and only needs a thimble full, at the beginning of the tail of fuel going to a bull dozed heap, to get it blazing quick time.
Don't mix fuels in containers!(always wondered if I would use that icon).
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Last edited by wrinklearthur; 15th February 2012 at 08:36 PM. Reason: more mumbo jumbo
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