Thread: GVM on cub camper

perhaps the "1" that "should" be in front of "850" was left off the compliance plate. Not suggesting anything mind you

Cub suggested modifications. . . I presume you have 3 steel camper bows across the roof. I refer to the one at the rear, one side of which raises and lowers at the door. This camper bow is under stress when the door bar is raised and will eventually bend/distort and crack at a bend. To prevent that, the bar needs to be cut and have a smaller diameter piece inserted so it can rotate freely without stress. - - - - 2nd mod:- the bar which raises and lowers at door level is held in position by a screw device on the vertical centre pole just inside the door. Make sure the screw is secure at the time camper is closed. But it can come loose, move sideways to distort and ruin the hinged fitting. To prevent it rotating, install a spring push button at the bottom of the pole. . . - - - - - - - -.3rd item:- the canvas at the door where the zip curves will shrink and make the zip very tight, ultimately many people have to replace the zip. Preventative measure is to install a piece of material on the curve as a spacer to eliminate stress on the zip. When the zip fails do not remove the old zip, rather, hand sew a new zip on to the material of the old zip. Although the canvas will hang very loose this solution seems to work well. - - - - - - - 4th item . . drill and install a bolt etc in the rear legs to stop them falling on the road whilst travelling. . . . . .5th item:- you will have trouble with tightness of the canvas on the door side. Put a removable vertical bar against the inside of the canvas, from the front camper bow down to something solid. next, a horizontal removable adjustable bar from the front camper bow to the vertical pole at the door (about 1.5 metres or so above floor level). this will keep the door side quite firm. . . . . . !!!!! and if on dirt roads - cover your rear window to stop it being broken by stones bouncing off camper!!!!!!!!!!! . . . . .hint – cover the frig vent on dirt roads to stop dust, also an extra piece of flyscreen hanging on outside of door means the zip is not used each time the camper is entered/exited – just hang it using a couple of bulldog clips etc . . . . . Oh, I almost forgot – depending on the pack rack configuration stones can get between the pack rack frame and vinyl (closed) roof. The stones will put holes in the vinyl which will allow water into the plywood- not good! Remove the pack rack so you can glue a strip of rubber between the metal frame and vinyl. And if you have an inside sink it is very handy to extend the sink pipe to the edge of camper so a bucket can be used in a caravan park! The above is some of what I have done to my spacematic drover.

3rd item:- the canvas at the door where the zip curves will shrink and make the zip very tight, ultimately many people have to replace the zip. Preventative measure is to install a piece of material on the curve as a spacer to eliminate stress on the zip. When the zip fails do not remove the old zip, rather, hand sew a new zip on to the material of the old zip. Although the canvas will hang very loose this solution seems to work well.

I have that problem with the zip.

My compliance plate has been hammered with stones to the point where the weight and VIN are barely readable.

CUB haven't yet quoted for the compliance plate replacement.

They did quote $500 to supply replacements for the faded decals on the sides of the trailer.

A new compliance plate is $40 from cub,so after d5disco posted why did I spend so much money buying this ''made in Australia for Australian conditions'' camper??. Pat