Thread: Electric trailer brakes No4

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

I hooked up the van this morning to set up the new P3 controller ---- showed the full 6 amps were being sent.
but you dont need starter cable to carry 6 amps over 6 metres.

There is considerable amount of resistance using thin / lightweight copper wire over that distance.

I would rewire using at least 5 mm² and run both a power and earth from the controller to the brakes.

Always use a fuse at the closest point practical ,where you pickup your power from and to safeguard your vehicle in the event of a crook vehicle earth, I would use the same size fuse that is used in the power line, placing one in the earth line to the trailer as well.
.

Hi Pedro
Whats the output voltage being sent to van
I have a P2 brake controller and my display show output in volts sent to van..
I don't know if this helps, this is the settings I use with my setup
My van weight is around 1.7t loaded and is a single axle off road coromal pop top.
I have my P2 set at 6.7 volts ,( max is 13 volts )and on boost 2
I have found this setting ideal towing on the highway , can feel the van braking more than the disco...
When I'm doing more stop start driving (city/bigger towns) I turn the boost off
Cheers smally

Its 6.5 at the moment,,
is there an upper level?

when doing a normal car+van stop its saying around 2.5 amps??

I think I need to spend more than 5 minutes trying things,,

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

Its 6.5 at the moment,,
is there an upper level?

when doing a normal car+van stop its saying around 2.5 amps??

I think I need to spend more than 5 minutes trying things,,

With the P2 you can adjust the voltage level up to 13 volts.....
I dont know how you do this with the P3...

cheers smally

Pedro.
I had this drama initially with my P3. I simply did not have the voltage high enough to suit my van. I set it up as per the manual and started on the default level. Boost 2. I found this setting to be entirely ineffective for my rig (23ft Retreat Daydream dual axle 2381kg). The initial bite of the van brakes quickly subsided and the D2a was struggling to pull it up. So I upped the voltage to 9.5, what a difference! Ended up backing it off to 9 and boost level to 1. Very safe and confident braking now. The van leads the car as it should and pulls up in no more distance than the car alone would.
I found B2 to be too severe, especially at low speeds such as in traffic or in caravan parks.
So mate, up the voltage and see how you go. You can go up to 12.8V. But you will only need 9 max by the looks of your van.
Regards
Robbo

Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

All 4 shoes/drums show usage (no glazing)but could be anything up to 20 years old.

What is the condition of the drum surface where the magnets rub? My 1990 van's linings and drum were good but the cause of poor brakes was the badly worn surface for the magnets and the badly worn magnets. With new drums the wheels will lock on gravel if the emergency lever is used and that's with 31" tyres. Previously with 26" tyres the brakes wouldn't even prevent the van and D4 from moving whilst at idle in D.

Just been out for another play,,

had 5 or six goes at 9V and it now stops much better,,

on one wheel.

the rear drivers side was hot, the rest were luke warm at best.
It figures as the first time I hit the slide control with 9V dialed in the van kicked sideways just enough for me to notice.

The question is,,
why only one?

Anybody know how much you can skim off the magnet/drum surface?

or,
do 10" drums fit inside a 14" rim??