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Thread: Towing another vehicle on an A frame

  1. #1
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    Towing another vehicle on an A frame

    Not too sure whether this is quite the right place to post this but any experience / info. that could be brought to bear on my question would be very much appreciated.

    I was wondering about the practicalities and legalities of towing another vehicle using an A frame. Specifically towing a SWB series vehicle (1250 kg approx.) using a modern defender 110.

    I occasionally see small Suzuki Jimmy's and the like being trailed behind a bus but is it possible to do similar behind a 110? The alternative is a large (ish) 4 wheel trailer which I would like to avoid as I would not need to tow often and don't want the added expense of Rego. and I don't really have the space to store one.

    Thanks,

    Ian.

  2. #2
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    We looked into it to tag-tow the bigger veteran cars (it's easier on the wooden wheels than on the trailer).

    Basically the tow car has to weigh over a certain amount if you don't have the brakes hooked up to work in the towed car... So this negated any possible use of the Disco as a tow car, (due to mechanical brakes in the veterans). I can't remember what the numbers were, but dad found the info and he's not real computer-literate. So have a search on myRTA. If you can make some way of actuating the brakes you could do it AFAIK.

    Cheers
    Will

    EDIT: Just noticed you're in Perth, so you'll have to check with your relevant authority, I imagine the rules are much the same.

  3. #3
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    Hi Ian

    There are different rules in each state, the most rigorous in NSW.
    • In short the "A" frame needs to be engineer approved.
    • The attachment of the "A" frame to the towed vehicle needs to have safety chains and be engineer approved.
    • The attachment of the towed combination to the towing vehicle needs to have safety chains and be engineer approved.
    • If the towed car and "A" frame weigh over 750Kg the combination needs to have a system to apply the brakes on the towed vehicle.
    • If the towed combination weighs over 2000kg the brakes need to operate on all wheels, be able to be applied by the driver of the towing vehicle and have a breakaway system that will hold the brakes on for 15 minutes should the combination come off the towing vehicle.
    • The towed vehicle needs to have stop, tail, blinkers and a number plate light that operate in concert to the towing vehicle.
    The NSW fact sheet is here: http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/.../vsi_41_-_guidelines_for_a-frame_towing_nov_2007.pdf

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  4. #4
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    FWIW ...Bloke a few doors from us has a motor home and tows a Suzi Vitara (which comes from the factory with attachment points for being towed)... he uses a Blue Ox device Blue Ox | Blue Ox Towing | Towing which is self aligning and has a simple wire attachment for activating the hydraulic brakes on the Suzuki... which is a Suzuki design feature.

    Not sure how you'd activate the brakes on your towed vehicle.
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  5. #5
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    Winnebago were marketing an A frame for towing behind their motorhomes. IIRC it was about $7,000. It used a bellows device attached to the brake pedal powered by an air compressor in the motorhome. It still required engineer certification of the two separate attachments to ensure that the A frame was compatable with the towing fittings on the towed car, manufacter fitted or not. Probably why the device was so expensive because it came with the engineer approval.

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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies View Post
    Winnebago were marketing an A frame for towing behind their motorhomes. IIRC it was about $7,000. It used a bellows device attached to the brake pedal powered by an air compressor in the motorhome. It still required engineer certification of the two separate attachments to ensure that the A frame was compatable with the towing fittings on the towed car, manufacter fitted or not. Probably why the device was so expensive because it came with the engineer approval.
    You can buy a good car trailer for less than that... (probably not new)

    Personally I don't understand RV's, I leave my house many times a day, often needing to drive somewhere, it would suck to have to pack up my whole yard, remove foundations, and drive off looking through the dining room window...

    Give me a 130 + a fifth wheeler any day, even if you want toys, just make the five'r a toy hauler...

    That post got a bit sidetracked...

  7. #7
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    You see a lot of front wheel drive modern cars being towed behind a motor home in the USA on a two wheel dolly. There are two buckets that hold the front wheels of the car off the ground. These are hydraulically lowered, the car driven on and then fastened and the buckets pumped up.
    URSUSMAJOR

  8. #8
    Tombie Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by MR LR jnr. View Post
    You can buy a good car trailer for less than that... (probably not new)

    Personally I don't understand RV's, I leave my house many times a day, often needing to drive somewhere, it would suck to have to pack up my whole yard, remove foundations, and drive off looking through the dining room window...

    Give me a 130 + a fifth wheeler any day, even if you want toys, just make the five'r a toy hauler...

    That post got a bit sidetracked...
    So just a question on the distracted...

    Where would you mount the table in the 130?
    Behind or in front of the rear axle?

    (And yes, there is a reason I ask!)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie View Post
    Where would you mount the table in the 130?
    Behind or in front of the rear axle?
    Best to do some research before answering this question.
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  10. #10
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    The kingpin position has to ahead of the rear axle centreline. Where depends on a number of factors. You need to determine these first before performing a simple calculation. Distance ahead = weight transferred to front axle x wheelbase / total weight.
    URSUSMAJOR

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