Great job.......why didn't I think of using the breakaway wire for the hand brake
You have me thinking about water crossings now
Glad I could help with bits and pieces along the way
I have taken inspiration from Weeds camper brake upgrade........
I have a 2005 Tvan which had hydraulic override brakes. Wanting to be able to open the rear door on the Landy fully I needed to get rid of the master cylinder/handbrake assembly perched above the top of the hitch assembly. Also plus have better brake control.
I looked at the options. Get new electric drums/hub assemblies which would require having to have the disc brake mounts cut off and the required drum brake ones welded on. This was just too much trouble.
So therefore the electric/hydraulic actuator route was the way I chose. Costs would be pretty similar. I would need to purchase an in car brake controller for both systems anyhow. Plus the people I had spoken to and research done was that this system has its pros over straight electric drums. At this stage I will set it up the same as Kimberley Kampers (and Weeds) do with a hydraulic park brake which is simply a separate button to power up the actuator which pressurises the lines with a manual shutoff valve which in turn keep the brakes locked on.
For the brake actuator I had to be able to mount it up high to keep it from getting dunked doing any water crossings. I decided, eventually :to put it on the back side of the spare wheel frame above the battery. Nice and high, out of the way, protected and the filler for the fluid reservoir sits just to the left of the spare the so no need to remove anything to check the level. I made a plywood mockup and took that and the frame to the welder and he made (5mm plate) and fitted it for me ($50).
After 4 coats of black satin Hammerite paint.
I settled on an Ozhitch to replace the override Tregg.
I used the same brake line lock valve and 60 amp push button that Weeds used for the park brake.
I bent and flared the brake lines. I was able to utilise the brake line already on there for the connection from the shut off valve to the callipers, just needed to cut, bend and flare. I then made up a new line from the shut off to the actuator. A couple of pics makes it clear.
I didn't require a breakaway switch, these for those who don't know activate the brakes in the event that the trailer becomes detached from the tow vehicle, these are only required for trailers over 2000kgs GTM. In this situation, normally there is a small rechargeable 5 a/h battery on the trailer so that when the trailer detaches a cable attached to the tow vehicles pulls a plug from a switch mounted on the drawbar, competes the electrical circuit and applies the brakes and brings the trailer to a halt on its own.
Since I wasn't using this I utilised the yellow cable (breakaway switch cable) and ran it to the 60 amp Narva push button I mounted on the chequer plate and then back to the + batt terminal. This is my park brake function, this button is pushed pressurising the system, while doing so, the brake line lock valved is turned locking the brakes on.
I used 3mm chequer plate to mount the button and the line lock. Also gives me a step to the roof of the Landy.
And now a couple of photo's of the whole rig, sorry for the quality of the pics they are phone pics.
With the low profile of the Ozhitch I was able to spin my tow tongue over and gain height under the drawbar.
Also with the Ozhitch being a little longer than the Tregg my rear door opens the majority of the way, certainly enough to get everything out with the Tvan still hitched up.
I used it this weekend drove about 250 kms to Mallacoota and everything worked beautifully. Didn't actually finish it until about 2pm on friday, we were going to leave at lunchtime ;D Its great to actually feel the back of the Landy being pulled down so to speak instead of being pushed upwards when braking. Overall I'm a very happy chappy.
Thanks to Weeds as well for answering my q's.
Mick.
Great job.......why didn't I think of using the breakaway wire for the hand brake
You have me thinking about water crossings now
Glad I could help with bits and pieces along the way
I actually thought about the breakaway wire when Slug mentioned it on your thread, so I looked at the wiring diagram and thought it would work that way.
Yeah I put it up there out of the way as they said not to immerse in water. I spoke to Felk over the phone, they have been great by the way I've actually spoken to them a few times for advice. They said not to let it go under water.
Yep you were a big help![]()
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