Review of D2 rims on ALKO parallel hubs

**PhilipA** · 19th September 2014, 07:25 AM

I pulled the wheels off my Camp'o'matic 1997 yesterday to check the wheel bearings after my lap of Australia .

This is the camper that I have fitted with D2 rims using UK sourced RRC/D1to D3 wheel adaptors, so that the D2 wheels can be fitted to ALKO 10inch brake Parallel hubs.

I found the adaptors to be as tight as the first day they were fitted , if not a bit tighter due to the rust and dust from the GRR.

The wheels were at fitted torque.

The bearings were in good condition except the RH outer which had rust marks on the outer track. It looks like a bit of moisture got in through the cap on a river crossing and the lay up over winter ruined the track.

I replaced the bearing and repacked the rest with silastic added to the cap.

The inners were perfect and there was no dust entry through the marine seals that I fitted.
So I count the mod as a success.
The spare rim is pretty worse for wear after being under the front of the camper.
Regards Philip A

**Redback** · 23rd September 2014, 01:06 PM

That's a great outcome, gives me hope for when I fit electric brakes eventually.

Thanks for the update.

Baz.

**davidsonsm** · 23rd September 2014, 01:33 PM

Any chance you could post details of the parts you used for the conversion?

**PhilipA** · 23rd September 2014, 02:02 PM

The adaptors I used were the D1 to D3 hubcentric as on this page.
Wheel Spacers - Hubcentric, Alloy, Land Rover defender wheel spacers, Land Rover discovery wheel spacers, Range Rover

I had to grind out the hole in the centre of the spacers by about AFAIR 4MM to allow the nose of the ALKO hubs to fully enter.The adaptors are almost exactly the length required and the cap sits just behind the spacer face.
Because the spacers were for D3 wheels I also had to reduce the diameter of the hubcentric ring to fit D2 wheels.
This would all be pretty simple if you had a lathe, but in my case I had to drill the inside around the inner diameter , then grind with alloy grinding tips. Similarly I ground down the hubcentric ring. Hubcentric rings are mainly to reduce NVH so I considered it the lesser of two evils as I did not want to modify the wheels as the whole point is to have a reliabel secoind spare.
After I fitted it all I measured radial and side to side runout and it was less than 0.5 MM on both wheels so the surfaces were true and the bolt hole positions were true on the adaptors..
The only other tips I can give are to thoroughly clean the brake drum surface with a wire brush and flapper to ensure the adaptors sit flush.
Because the D2 and AFAIK D3 wheels have lots more inset than RRC/D1 wheels the track was only increased by about 20MM. This really suited my camper as it was designed for 7.50x16 Toyota rims and RRC rims constricted tyre choice to 205x16 as much wider would be very near the inner guards.
Regards Philip A
Here is a post showing the work necessary and photos.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/2094741-post32.html

Tombie · 23rd September 2014, 03:20 PM

Hubcentric wheels / hubs are to ensure the load is taken by the Hub not the wheel studs

**PhilipA** · 23rd September 2014, 03:50 PM

Hubcentric wheels / hubs are to ensure the load is taken by the Hub not the
wheel studs

Not really an issue on most camper trailers, when you consider weight vs car weight, thrust always straight forward.
Of course with a very heavy trailer it may come into play but not in my case with 700KG max weight = 350 per wheel.
People with heavy trailers and D2 wheels may wish to go the extra mile and
have the hub centres machined properly.
RRCs never had Hub centric but bigger studs.

Regards Philip A

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