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12th February 2015, 09:14 PM
#11
Time for an update - finally got around to fitting the body panels and painting etc.
The panels are 3mm HT marine alloy plate, sikaflexed to the frame. This should the skin to contribute to the overall strength, but still permit flex without fatigue if necessary. I then etch primed it and hit it with a couple of coats of Protec Enamel.
069.jpg068.jpg067.jpg065.jpg
Since painting it, I've done a couple of off-road trips and am very happy with the way it handles corrugations and rough roads. I think the soft, long travel suspension takes a lot of stress off the trailer structure itself and also the tow vehicle and coupling. There is nothing like the clunking and skipping I used to experience with the old No. 5 trailer. The fact that its a pintle coupling is virtually un-noticable, although this may due to a good fit between the ring and pintle.
I now have lots of stone chips in the new paint due to rocks thrown up by the tow vehicle, might need some better mud flaps...At least the camoflage enamel is easy to touch up. I also need to fit some mud flaps to the rear of the trailer guards to be fully legal. Its heavier than I planned, I estimate it to be around 400kg in box trailer form.
Almost finished the drop in ladder/boat rack which will also be designed to take a roof top tent. Deciding on the height of the upper frame rails was a challenge - I wanted it high enough to mount an awning and give good access underneath. However I soon realised it was potentially going to look a bit ungainly, especially once the roof top tent goes up there.
I understand why Drifta decided to use linear motors to raise the frame on their camper. I also thought about using sliding SHS tubes with locating pins for simplicity, however I think this would end being a multi person job to raise the frame.
I think I will also need stiffer coils once the roof top tent goes on, it currently has body roll like an early RRC which will only get worse once the COG gets higher.
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22nd March 2015, 11:42 AM
#12
Ok, an update for anyone who's interested.
After much deliberation, I decided to go with a lift up frame. I could not find a compromise between a raised COG I was happy with (once the RTT goes on) and a lowered height which was also useful in terms of awning heights and access to gear in the tub.
I looked at electric linear actuators - the chinese versions were fairly affordable but decided against due to complexity and doubts over reliability.
Gas springs (struts) were the next option - there is a huge range of lengths and strengths available. They are rated in Newtons (N) - 10N being close enough to 1 kg. I chose 700N/310mm stroke versions - probably overkill but it needs to overcome the weight of the frame, basket and a RTT, plus friction in the sliding tubes. This also allows some weakening over time. About $35 each. They contain some sort of internal damper which means they extend at a controlled speed.
Next issue was a way to raise and lower the frame. Electric ATV winches winches with remote controls can be had on ebay for around $100 and these were tempting. I ended up going with simpler and much cheaper geared hand winches. The front one is mounted permanently and the rear winch slots into the rear 2" receiver when required. Raising and lowering with the winches is easy, best with two people, but doable with one as long as the differential lift at each end is kept to a about 3" to prevent jamming in the tubes. Initially I had issues with jamming at very small amounts of differential lift, but some spray lube sorted that out.
I'm currently using 10mm pinch bolts to lock the frame legs in position, not sure how these will hold on rough roads and may incorporate some spring bolt latches which will lock into holes drilled in the frame legs.
In conjunction with the gas lift and the landing legs, I have around 450-500mm of total lift, which allows plenty of headroom under the awning and will keep the top of the RTT below tow vehicle height for aerodynamics and low COG. This will also allow setup of the RTT at an easy working height before the frame is raised on the struts.
I also built a basic kitchen bench, which drops down from the rear tailgate when required. This will suit my needs and does not take up space in the rear tub. The RTT will fold over the rear and provide shelter for the 'kitchen' at the rear of the tub .
The frame is removable in about 5 mins, which converts it all back to a basic box trailer.
I'm currently looking at either a Safari RTT or a Gordigear RTT, which seem to be the best value within my price range.
Lowered (travel position)
IMG_1580.jpg
Rear winch
IMG_1581.jpg
Raised position, awning extended
IMG_1582.jpg
Rear 'kitchen'
IMG_1578.jpg
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25th March 2015, 08:34 AM
#13
very impressive. looks factory built.
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