Drop axle on caravan

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Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

Have a look at the "fully insulated" new caravans here:

Caravaners Forum • View topic - ROGUES GALLERY or HORROR STORY ???

I wouldn't buy a new caravan unless if was a sandwich construction.... I'd probably go an import with upgraded ratings ( I don't need to worry about his unless I win tattslotto though :angel:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...015/03/866.jpg

An aussie made "fully insulated" 'van :o :D :Rolling:

seeya,
Shane L.

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The bloke who put up these pics is / used to be a van builder and repairer, many of the pics are quite old now. He used to build Pheniox Caravans which were rated as being very good and extremely expensive.
I have not read anything he writes for several years because the way he talked to people made me feel like I should drive up to his repair yard and smack him in the gob, he is such a rude arrogant *****.

I'm sure his work is very good but there is no need to be such a rude bastard.

The one thing his many pics in his link prove is owning a aluminium glad van that has that wood based product, which I can't remember the name off right now, for its frame is asking for trouble.

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Originally Posted by TerryO

The bloke who put up these pics is / used to be a van builder and repairer, many of the pics are quite old now. He used to build Pheniox Caravans which were rated as being very good and extremely expensive.
I have not read anything he writes for several years because the way he talked to people made me feel like I should drive up to his repair yard and smack him in the gob, he is such a rude arrogant *****.

I'm sure his work is very good but there is no need to be such a rude bastard.

The one thing his many pics in his link prove is owning a aluminium glad van that has that wood based product, which I can't remember the name off right now, for its frame is asking for trouble.

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Yeah that's him. If I'm trying to work something out, I search the forum with his username. I can understand him getting abusive, he'd advice people over and over and over ... hundreds of times of the way to do something that works. And he'd have people argue with him they know better (even when they have probably never worked on a caravan in the lives). eg: installing windows with urethane or silicon.... and how this makes it near impossible for a repairer to remove them in the future.

That picture *is* how the majority of aussie vans are made. Heavy chassis, wooden frame and cladding. The alloy framed 'vans he pictures appear to be just as poorly assembled, only the frames don't rot when they leak (the floors still will though).

seeya,
Shane L.

Well, just got home from Corowa. Did 700KM with the van towing it with the 101. Averaged 25 Litres per 100KM which I can live with - only a few more litres than without a trailer. On the freeway and A roads, sat on 90KPH (On the GPS) without issue - the 101 really didn't notice it too much, but boy, the ride is sooooo much more comfortable with the weight of the van sitting on the suspension. :)

With a few tweaks before we head to Melrose, I will be even happier, but it doesn't need much - the fridge flue needs venting (kit ordered) and a couple more cupboards finished with doors on them so we can put our clothes away. Roof hatch needs replacing (I have the new one, but it's a different size, so a bit of work there).

All in all about a 7 out of 10, and I would have no hesitation in hooking it up and driving off into the sunset with it right now.

Again, a big thanks to Mick_march and Chops - without their help I simply wouldn't have been ready for this trip. I had a blast at Corowa by the way - It is a top weekend and I encourage anyone within striking distance to get there next year - with or without a Military vehicle - you will love it. Big thanks to the KVE (Khaki Vehicle Enthusiasts) for putting the event on and managing it so well :)

Couple of pics tonight as I finished during daylight hours.

New water filler installed.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...psacab4b27.jpg

Top half of new vent kit installed. Easy enough apart from the relocation of the outlet that runs the fridge from 240 volts - that is now a couple of inches away from the vent - blocks it a bit, but I think I have 3 or 4 times the venting at the top now. Still have to work out where I'm going to stick the bottom one due to the old access door being right where I need to stick it. I may put it in temporarily until after Melrose, then find a bit of new cladding so I can fit it properly and make it look half decent. The bottom of the vent is above the top of the fridge where it needs to be, but I'll still have to make a few bits up to direct the air outside and to seal around the fridge properly like modern installations. This should make the fridge work more efficiently, and stop it heating the van up so much. I'll also feel much happier that all the hot air from the flue isn't coming out around all the old dry timber framing around the fridge.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...psd7f9b7a5.jpg

Roof hatch is finished, it's a bit of a step back - from a 60's van, but it was there and it works. . Internal flashing is 0.4mm zincalume, and the whole lot is sealed up very well, so I'm not expecting any trouble. Once the sealant has fully cured, I'll give it a hose down to check it. New fly screen is also installed so no mozzies at night.

Hatch area is 900 x 750 now, so quite large. Only downside will be if I leave the hatch open when I'm not around and it rains... Oh well, floors are Lino, so I'll carry a mop... Photo is a bit deceiving as there is a good 100mm clearance when it is fully open - heaps of airflow.

Roof hatch is finished, it's a bit of a step back - from a 60's van, but it was there and it works. . Internal flashing is 0.4mm zincalume, and the whole lot is sealed up very well, so I'm not expecting any trouble. Once the sealant has fully cured, I'll give it a hose down to check it. New fly screen is also installed so no mozzies at night.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...psc3918bf5.jpg

Lower fridge vent is also in.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1bc26827.jpg

Front stabilisers welded on, and you can see the 50 x 5 strap below the drawbar - a bit of strengthening to stop the flex I noticed during its first outing. That's just tacked in waiting for my neighbour to wander across and stitch it in properly.
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8d016b5e.jpg

So, a couple of cupboard doors and some wiring and we're ready to hit the road for Melrose in it! Only a week to go before we head off on a leisurely trip over to SA via the Barossa Valley. I wonder how many boxes of wine I can fit in the back of the 101... :D

Good to see you sourced some legs. Funny, i was today grinding off the old rear legs and prepping the surface for the new ones... your always a few steps in front which is good for me as i can check and compare with mine :)

You shouldn't be welding to the top or bottom of the A frame. Any bracing should be attached to the sides.

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Originally Posted by BigJon

You shouldn't be welding to the top or bottom of the A frame. Any bracing should be attached to the sides.

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Every factory brace from the 60's to today is welded to the bottom of the draw bar. Thought it was across the top you couldn't weld? everyone avoids doing that.

Bracing underneath should be done using bar spaced off the main frame...

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Originally Posted by Tombie

Bracing underneath should be done using bar spaced off the main frame...

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Agreed that's how most do it, and the way I was going to do it but the Engineer that designed the draw bar for me says this will work better as spaced method requires the bar to be pre stressed or stretched if it is going to be of any use, whereas this method doesn't need that.

He did say that is doesn't really need it and that what is there already is fine, but says this is the easiest way to alleviate the slight bounce in it when a big bump is negotiated.