Thread: Drop axle on caravan

So, after a big slog today, I have plenty to show for it. New drawbar is all tacked in ready to be fully welded on Monday by my mate. Thanks to Mr Marsh for a helping hand and ideas today - he really helped me finalise what was floating about in my brain.

So, onto the pics.

Here's an overview of everything. Twin gas bottle holders & spare wheel carrier. The new bar is 450mm longer than standard and welded right back to the spring hangers. Despite the size and weight of the steel, I can still easily lift the van from the front - my guess is it's not 40Kg as you see it here. With the spare and the gas bottles, not even 100. With the wet room finished inside and a battery and solar panel, then probably around 120 to 130 which is right where I want it. Jack stands are still there, but it is fully self supporting now.


Close up of the spare holder and the gas cylinder holders.


With the wheel mounted.


Tomorrow is the hitch, brake line, etc. should be mobile again early next week.

This is the hitch I was talking about.

You will also need part A803 from here
Master Castors and Trailer Parts

Are you going to have only the top plate at the tip of the bar or you will put another one at the bottom?
Even an small one at the bottom will help to stop any flex IMHO.
Are you going to plug the ends of the RHS with expanding foam?

Just the plate on the top I think. The new setup is hugely over engineered compared to the original - which also only had a plate on top (6mm) Even with it just tacked up it us very rigid - I think I could tow it as is just with a few blobs of weld here and there , but that plate is 10mm thick and will be welds top and bottom - not much chance of flexing IMO. The ends will be blanked off with something - not sure what yet. Maybe some plastic caps - I think you can get them that size, but I like the idea OD expanding foam - I could use that in both ends to keep the moisture out, which is what caused the original to rust out in the first place. Out of one side the brake line and wiring for the lights and the reverse camera. Through the other will be a 50 amp supply running to the main battery in the 101 to the house battery which will be located under the dining seat just forward of the axle - directly opposite the fridge, so that should balance the van a bit better, as there is significantly more weight on that side at the moment.

if you are going to plug them with something more permanent run a conduct on one of the bottom corners. Just put silicone on them to stop moving and it will be easy to replace or add wiring in the future.
On my trailer I have done that and then used expansion foam (in spray) and worked very well.
Just a thought

Don't seal them, it will make them rust worse...

Originally Posted by Tombie

Don't seal them, it will make them rust worse...

Ok, but what if the steel is brand new and dry? What's the best way of ensuring it won't rust in the long run? Am I just better off sealing the front so it doesn't get full of water every time it rains, but leave the back open for it to air?

The accumulation of dust ans soil particles together with humidity it is the killer. Wasp nest also in Qld
You can paint it inside and choose the paint depending on how much money you would like to spend.
The expensive will be POR15 undercoat only because it will be nor exposed to UV
The cheaper option and very good product as well will be Hamerlite paint.
One way to paint it will be to drag a rag soaked in paint from one end to the other and give a second coat for those parts missed.