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Thread: Box Trailer Buying Advice

  1. #1
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    Box Trailer Buying Advice

    Hi guys,

    Due to an impending move across country I'm in the market for a box trailer. If I'm being honest, I've wanted one for a while and now's my excuse.

    What I'm hoping you can help me with is some tips on the pros and cons of some set-ups and how best to configure it to suit my purposes.

    I obviously want a decent trailer for general utility, but I'd also like to be able to throw some gear in it and head out bush with a reasonably practical camping set-up.

    I'm currently looking at a locally made (and therefore painted zinc, not gal) 7x5 with 500mm sides and a slightly longer tailgate than the norm. I want holders for jerries either side at the front and gas bottles at the rear. I've been given the option of an off-road hitch, heavy duty jockey wheel, caravan jacks, and water storage and I'm tempted by all of it. I can also go for upgraded suspension, or even match the wheels and track width to my 110 at some significant cost. I'm dubious on the merits of those options. And I'm holding off on brakes for now to keep the cost down.

    What I'm wondering is things like:

    1. Is 7x5 the best size for this use, or can I go smaller and still fit a tent on top down the track?
    2. Should I ask for a swing away tailgate or is the standard fine (or even better)?
    3. Is there anything I'm missing from the list that I should consider, or indeed is there anything I should scrub as a waste of time and money?

    Cheers guys. I'm running a little blind here so could really use the advice of others.

  2. #2
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    If youre going for 7x5, fit brakes. You could probably fit a tent to a 6x4 if you really wanted, but my opinion on that is "why bother going through the same exercise for smaller reward?" All those options sound like good additions to a trailer to take bush.
    A drop down tailgate would be easier to remove should you find yourself with a need to do so.

    Specify tie down rails all around if its to be used for general utility duties.

    Suspension: eye to eye leaf springs (not slipper springs) are fine, shocks are a good idea. Matching your stud pattern and track width shouldn't cost much at manufacturing stage. I'd prioritize electric drum brakes and matched hubs over independent suspension for a lightweight, general duty, multipurpose utility trailer.

    My $0.02 anyway

  3. #3
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    Cheers Cammo.

    All good points.

    I've had a chat with a trailer parts place and I may buy some gear there and deliver it to the trailer place for fitting.

    You don't happen to know what the track width is on a 2010 110", do you?

    And you mention electric drums. The trailer parts place suggested hydraulic discs but intertia operated, not electric. I'm not sure which way to go. Is it easy enough to start with one set-up and modify it later?

  4. #4
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    Is there any reason you can't run electric drums, but hook the handbrake cable up to an over-ride coupling on the drawbar. You see, electric brakes are nothing short of brilliant. You WILL find iwth a box trailer most poeple that want to tow it won't have a brake controller. In this case they can fill the reverse lock out of place and use the cable over-ride brakes If you have a brake controller you just flip the reversing brake lock in so the over-ride brakes don't work.

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  5. #5
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    Correction: I'm after axle width, not track width, as I'll probably not match the wheels until some point down the track.

  6. #6
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Definitely get brakes of some description. If you don't, then your ATM will be limited to 750Kg and that's not much if by the time you take the trialer weight off it, you will be only be able to put around 400Kg max in the trailer. Electric brakes are indeed the best, but you run into the problems with brake controllers if you use different vehicles or someone wants to borrow it (but that can be a bonus as well... ).

    Over ride brakes work fine on something up to around 1,200 to 1,500Kg and the shorter nature of a box trailer means you won't have as much stability issues as longer Caravans can have.

    My 1,400Kg 16' van uses over ride brakes and it's fine. I went this way for the above mentioned reason - I've towed the van with 5 different vehicles in the last 10 months, so it made sense for me. If you have the extra dollars and only plan to tow it with one vehicle, electric is still a superior option.

    Unless you plan to go way out bush or touring with the trailer, having a different stud pattern and a separate spare for the trailer isn't the end of the world. These things can be changed later as your funds permit.

    Spend your money on a solid, well built base and suspension that will last for years, then do the wheels, and even a brake upgrade later down the track if needed.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys. All points noted.

    If I hold off on the axle and wheels etc., but go for the better suspension and brakes now, is it a simple matter of swapping those bits around later on without having to redo anything else?

    I'd ask the trailer mob but their comms comes a distant second to fabrication.

  8. #8
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    Avoid the china imports,lots of horror storys.
    Definately braked.Electric brakes are much better off road,you dont get shunting from the overide brakes,you can apply electric brakes manualy down hill without the tow vehicle braking.
    Get landrover stud pattern,defender is easy.
    I would go 8x5,you can never get a big enough trailer.
    Get an "off-road" version,better quality materials and heavier duty springs.
    Consider a tregg hitch,a must if you intend off-roading later.
    LED lighting is a must,once you have used LEDS,you wont ever go back.
    Have a google for the custom builders,there are several around Perth.
    ENJOY
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  9. #9
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    Cheers Andrew,

    Yeah, the major reason I'm going painted and not gal is the import v local thing. I'd much rather buy Aussie made. I'm looking at the major player, JP, and another I just lucked onto tonight called Loadstar. We'll see how they compare. I'll be supplementing via Martin's.

    8x5 would be great, but that's one big trailer, and it'll be a fair bit wider than my vehicle, won't it? I also have to keep in mind that I'm about to move into a house with a tiny single car garage into which this will probably go.

    The LEDs are a given and I'm leaning towards the VC DO35 hitch.

    The only thing that's giving me pause is the brakes. It's another $650 (for electric - trailer only) that I don't think I need to spend just yet at a time when I'm bleeding money. Can this be easily retrofitted down the track?

  10. #10
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    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Yes, electric brakes can be retrofitted later. $650 extra for electric brakes s a little steep IMO. You can get an entire brake upgrade kit for about $420, take off the dollars for hydraulic over ride brakes and it should only be a couple of hundred extra. Or did that price include the controller? That's anoth cost to be taken into account.

    TSPA-EBKIT 10" Electric Drum Brake Kit - WholeSale Trailer Parts, Trailers, Trailer, Trailer Parts, Trailer Spare Parts, Trailer Parts Distributor, Queensland, Gold Coast, Sunshine Coast, Townsville, Cairns, Rockhampton, Bundaberg, Hervey Bay, Gladst
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

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