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vac brakes.
you only need to run a 3/8th hose for vac supply, vac actuators are larger but you set up for vac off spring on and just use a tied in on a T piece with a QD down the back to hook up to the brake tank then plumb in as per electric over air.
If you're game enough you can set up so that it uses a blanced diaphragm and then tap both sides of your booster to make the trailer brakes come on at the same time and pressure as your normal brakes.
Not many people use vacuum brakes these days, too expensive to fit up the tow vehicle and space needed for accumulator tank. However I know Bob Shannon collected systems during his life and they are still out at Marayla in storage, we're going to have a clearing sale of his stuff shortly so I can acquire stuff for you if you need.
Quote:
Originally Posted by crash
Yep it's electric over hydraulic.......after fitting to my camper trailer I'm sold on the set up.
How heavy is the 101?
tiltable? So you,re thinking of driving it up like a playground seesaw?
Exciting!!
Measure your 101 wheelbase, divide by two, compare with trailer overhang.
Still exciting?
Thats a fine looking axle,, played much with S-Z-cam brakes?
not that hard to setup..Quote:
Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies
1 t piece in the existing vac line
1 vac line down to the back of the vehicle
1 QD
1 ball tap to isolate it if you need to.
from there you do it all on trailer.
(this is for if you were doing an S cam axle, if you're not going on S cam then use elec/hyd or Elec
Really :pQuote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Regarding the comments on the brakes, yes I know all about these having worked in the industry for 10 years - I can adjust these with my eyes closed - literally.
The parts are also very cheap for these, and as I've mentioned previously, I know where one is that I can snaffle if needed - one of my best friends owns a truck repair shop, there's all sorts of stuff kicking about in there I could use - and it's where I'd build the trailer should I ever get that far.
Even if I had to buy a brand new one - with brakes, they can be had for around $1,400 for a setup for single wheels. Rims can be bought fairly cheaply second hand, but a pair of shiney alloys would look good...
The brakes themselves are operated mechanically via a rod that runs out and is connected to an air actuator, but there's nothing stopping me using a different style actuator to operate them - the electric over hydraulic actuators can be bought that provide over 5,000KG of force - more than what an air operated job on a truck can provide - all that runs off a standard brake controller, and can be fitted with a break away system, so keeps everything legal.
I want to be able to tow this with more than one vehicle so going to vac brakes wouldn't be the go here - just a standard electric brake controller is all that is required.
Again, I'm thinking outside the box - not just using a part for its originally intended use. :)
In Victoria, a home made trailer with a gross mass under 4,500KG requires no inspection - ever, so I'll stamp the plate at 4,500, take it to VicRoads - they will check its overall dimensions and make sure the lights work, hand over $55 and the jobs done. Not sure about other states, but I'm happy enough with how things are done here.
Pedro - yep, drive on, drive off see saw style - fun and easy! :D. Do you really need me to measure up the wheelbase on it...? :D
Oh, the 101 would be just over 2,000Kg with all the camping gear in it - they are very light, but if I go to all this trouble, I'd want to be able to tow any 4WD - my L322 weights 2,700KG, so I'd be able to tow that too (although I usually let the RACV do that. ;))
It made sense in a maths type of way:angel:
Even then I didnt get it right,,,
For your tilt tray to work, the rear part of the trailer has to be longer than the 101 wheelbase minus half the tyre diameter.
does not.... :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
use loading ramps, they will help pick the nose end of the trailer up and if you do it just right as front axle walks past the pivot the rears will be on the ramps which makes the weight transferance less dramatic (as you have the front wheels close to the pivot and the rears a fair way back doing a shifting 50/50 share with the ground and the back of the trailer.
That is assuming the weight is evenly distributed from front to rear and there is no mechanical assistance to tilt the trailer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift
Both which might not apply.