Thread: Caravan wiring connections

I bought an adaptor made by Labtronx for my L322. I bought it secondhand but it's probably one of these: Busta 4

I'd suggesting contacting Lee at Labtronx for his advice. Lee knows LR electronics.

Two main things to consider:
- recognition of LED-only trailer or caravan
- charging requirements of caravan

As Ron has mentioned you can buy a module (or make your own using resistors) to take care of the LED recognition issue.
I bought one from here:
Linear Electronic Design | Buy Now

It was simple because my charging is via a separate circuit running directly from the dual battery in the D4 to my camper trailer batteries.
So the LED module only needs to be connected to the 7-pin plug that handles lights (the black one known as 12N) and the module sits on the camper drawbar.

However, if your 12-pin plug includes a charging circuit for your van, you may need to do more than just connect to the two 7-pin plugs.
eg, what is the required capacity of charging from vehicle?

The expense on your previous vehicle may have been to install a high capacity charging circuit from battery to rear and possibly adding an aux battery to go with that. If so, that is likely to be required again in the RRS to charge the van.

Regards,
Scott

I prefer to go "around" the cars electronics. In my wifes poogoe I just used a bypass module. There's no smarts there. It's just an elegant way of wiring in 7 relays. If you pry the plastic top off I'm sure you will find 7 micro-relays and a small PCB with the wiring coming off of it.

Towbar Towing Smart 7 Way Bypass Relay For Cambus & Multiplex Wiring | eBay

So run some chunky wiring and anderson point down to the back underneath the car ( feeding it straight from the battery through a chunky fuse ). Then use say a 10amp fuse off the back of the anderson and a short length of wire upto the bypass unit and power if from here. Just get the signal wires for indicators/brakes/taillights from the rear light clusters like you would on any older car This will not effect the cars computers/light checking sensors as it's only milliamps being drawn for the relays inside the breakout unit.

seeya,
Shane L.

Originally Posted by DoubleChevron

So run some chunky wiring and anderson point down to the back underneath the car ( feeding it straight from the battery through a chunky fuse ). Then use say a 10amp fuse off the back of the anderson and a short length of wire upto the bypass unit and power if from here. Just get the signal wires for indicators/brakes/taillights from the rear light clusters like you would on any older car This will not effect the cars computers/light checking sensors as it's only milliamps being drawn for the relays inside the breakout unit.

You WANT the car to detect the trailer for multiple reasons, and to do this it needs to draw about 1.5 amperes on at least 1 indicator circuit. When it detects the trailer it will modify gearbox shift pattern, disable reverse sensors and stop the vehicle automatically going to offroad height when certain terrain response settings are selected.
All you need to do is get a at least 1 21W load resistor (9 or 10 ohms) and wire it up on the trailer wiring from 1 indicator wire to the ground return wire. If you want the trailer icon to flash when either indicator is operating, then get 2 resistors and wire one into each circuit.
do you need a brake controller ? Is the trailer over 750kg? That is also probably where some of your previous vehicle money went.