Another problem for the experts

**walker** · 21st September 2006, 09:25 AM

Since you all did such a great job with the engineering problem.....I have another on for you.

The sides on the camper are going to be 600mm high. I am building a frame and then 1.5mm steel sheets will attach to the frame. The entire tailer will be enclosed in (including top) with no drop down sides or ends. Access will be via a hatch on each side at the front and a kitchen will slide out of the rear. This is to try to help with dust proofing.

The problem - Should I weld the sides, floor and top onto the frame or pop rivet?

No matter what I do I will sikaflex the panels on as well but I have herd before that pop riveting is better because you need to allow flex in the body.......but it would be a lot easier to weld.

I was thinking maybe short 25mm welds followed by a gap then another weld???

**seqfisho** · 21st September 2006, 09:45 AM

Adam,

I would go the stitch welds as pop rivets will eventually wear and break with the vibration over outback roads.

**landrovermick** · 21st September 2006, 10:11 AM

yes but pop rivits are easier to fix on the side of the road....

**seqfisho** · 21st September 2006, 10:13 AM

Originally Posted by landrovermick

yes but pop rivits are easier to fix on the side of the road....

Yes but if you weld you wont be stopped on the side of the road and need to fix them

**walker** · 21st September 2006, 02:54 PM

Does anyone know what they do on the "expensive" off-road campers like Kimberly etc?

**chunk** · 21st September 2006, 03:09 PM

your best option is to weld, even slight flexing of the frame will cause the rivets to break.

P.S. im looking forward to see the finished product. so keep the photo's coming and dont forget to keep a good set of plans, you never know who might want to use you design.

good luck.
jeff

**walker** · 21st September 2006, 03:24 PM

I did start with a great basic set of plans and drawings which I posted somewhere here. Then when I started building it all went out the window and now I make it up as I go.

Put I will re-draw them and post it up

**Blknight.aus** · 21st September 2006, 03:24 PM

Mate I noticed you have what looks like a fancy dancy mig welder there

(your other thread)

I would be spot welding it on using a saw tooth pattern then running a bead of selastic along the inside of the join.

best of both worlds the ease of repair of rivits (drill out the weld then insert rivit) and the strength of welding...

Im not entirely sure but your welder should be able to do spots with the right attachemend which, I would think, you should be able to hire from a reputable welding supplier, but they will sting you for the electrodes in the attachment... ($40ish a pair from memory)

**walker** · 21st September 2006, 03:27 PM

Thanks Dave, I will look into it.

The welder is Dad's. He works for himself and makes metal shopfitting products so he has a few welders and 3 spot welders but the spot welders are all fixed position.

**stusgonesailing** · 21st September 2006, 04:21 PM

I was given some advice by a guy that rebuilt a 101FC into a camper that the best thing for sealing panels is not sikaflex or equivilant but coachbuilders sealing tape. Apparently it is a double sided tape with a glue in it that when fitted can only be removed with a grinder.

Apparently it is what all the bus/coach bodies are put together with. Seals all the joins and remains fexable so it keeps on sealing.

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