Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 22

Thread: Electric Brakes on Camper

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Gold Coast
    Posts
    1,428
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Electric Brakes on Camper

    Hi there

    My girl is about to buy a TD4 Freebie and I'm keen on towing the 4x4 camper behind it for long trips Being a diesel it should pull it quite nicely.

    Only worry are brakes. Will need to fit brakes to the camper for sure.

    Whats best way do think?

    I was thinking of fitting electric operated ones with contoller..hard to fit?

    Camo
    2004 Black Range Rover L322 Diesel

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,500
    Total Downloaded
    0
    electric brakes are a doddle to fit providing you get the right kit to suit what you physically have atm. (brakes, hubs and bearings wise)

    its about 5 hours worth of work from go to whoa but I would also recommend some mods to the system straight off the bat... Some kits already have them some dont..

    most electric brake systems (all for trailers over 2t) have a backup battery that usually goes neglected. This battery is provided to operate the brakes in the event of low voltage from the tow vehicle or a brake-away.

    The mod is simple and is 2 parted. (maybe 3)

    1, beef up the cabling from the follwoing plugs on the trailer socket of the tow vehicle brake light, aux power and earth

    2. fit a seperate power feed from the vehicle to the battery on the system so that it can be charged independantly. If it goes flat it has the potential to draw more amps than the aux power feed can supply. The fuse feeding it will blow and then you have no brakes on the trailer and no emergancy control of the brakes. (if you have the system that uses the electrical to hold the brakes off then disregard this step but have fun trying to move the trailer if the battery goes flat.)

    (3) fit one of those cheapo 12v solar panels to the trailer brake battery.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Just to bring this back to the top. I'm interested in trailer brakes too. After a trip to Jimna over Easter and having the camper trying to push the Disco around on steep dirt corners (2wd forestry road). Didn't cause problems but you could feel it wanting to.

    Just to reiterate what Camo said, what is needed to convert the non braked trailer to a braked trailer?

    New braked hubs or can you get brakes for existing hubs?
    Bearings?

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,132
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Utemad View Post
    Just to bring this back to the top. I'm interested in trailer brakes too. After a trip to Jimna over Easter and having the camper trying to push the Disco around on steep dirt corners (2wd forestry road). Didn't cause problems but you could feel it wanting to.

    Just to reiterate what Camo said, what is needed to convert the non braked trailer to a braked trailer?

    New braked hubs or can you get brakes for existing hubs?
    Bearings?
    Basically you start from your bare axle. But go there, you won't regret it.

    All you need is to experience the need for a panic stop at highway speeds.
    ....

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bayswater North, Vic, 3153
    Posts
    1,048
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Basically you start from your bare axle.
    As rosco said, you wont regret it

    (assuming here, that you don't have any brakes fitted)

    You need to know the size of your axle - (diameter) if round - or square section ........ so you can get the right bracket to weld onto the axle.
    (get the part No.s for the bearings and seals too so you can get the correct drums)

    The backing plates bolt onto the new brackets which have just been welded onto the axle and all the shoes, springs, actuators, and magnet attach to these. The drums with the bearings and seals will then fit over the top.

    Electrically, there is a power wire and an earth to each side which is connected to the electromagnet at one end and trailer plug at the other.

    Depending on the weight of your trailer you probably don't need to have the battery, solar panel and disconnect gear mentioned by Blacknight ... in the event of a break away it would actuate the brakes and hold them for a minimum of fifteen minutes. While my camper has onboard power for lights/pump etc I don't have the breakaway.

    A controller needs to be fitted to the towing vehicle and is a DIY job too if you are confident with these things ... It may be required in a life and death scenario, so any doubts - get it done by a professional .... as with the fitting and welding above.

    My controller came with good instructions and needed: power in, power out, earth and brake lights to be connected to it. I needed to run a new cable back to the Aux. on the trailer socket for the power out from the controller, I also used the opportunity to upgade the cables (separate) to the power outlets in and on the back of the disco.

    My camper trailer already had electric brakes fitted, but I have another trailer that I intend to upgrade to elec brakes too (eventually )... should get out of it for under $500. My controller is a Tekonsha prodigy and from evilbay was $189.00.

    When you do the job, take plenty of photos and post it up in the projects section ... there seems to be some interest

    Stevo

    Click to see here also : AL-KO

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Well as far as my trailer is concerned I rang the manufacturer and the bearings it has are part no. 68149 to suit a 45mm parallel axle. No idea what that is but the guy who answered the phone is just filling in as the others are at the Sydney camping show.

    I called AL-KO and they weren't exactly helpful. They quoted me $818 for an 'offroad kit' to suit a 5 stud Land Cruiser hub with 10in brakes. I said I doubt very much that they are the same hub and he said that he thinks they are but either way the price won't differ much.
    He did tell me what was in the kit but I had pretty much switched off by then. He did say they were handbrake compatible.

    Considering that it was $450 extra for brakes according to the manufacturer website I think that guy is a loony.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Bayswater North, Vic, 3153
    Posts
    1,048
    Total Downloaded
    0



    Well as far as my trailer is concerned I rang the manufacturer and the bearings it has are part no. 68149 to suit a 45mm parallel axle.
    This is what I've got under the camper, utemad
    10" drums, 6 stud Landcruiser/Patrol, offroad, provision for handbrake.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by sschmez View Post
    This is what I've got under the camper, utemad
    10" drums, 6 stud Landcruiser/Patrol, offroad, provision for handbrake.
    Since you have got it all in bits in the photo I assume you retrofitted it yourself?

    What did it set you back?

    Also AL-KO said the offroad kit had offroad magnets. Any idea what he meant by that?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1,132
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Also, if you decide to go with brakes, I'd strongly suggest 5 stud Landy pattern to suit your veh. That way all wheels are interchangeable.
    Ours was part of the camper trailer package when we bought and cost a wee tad more than L'Cruiser type, but had much bigger HD bearings, so I decided it was worth it. Don't know about so called "off road magnets" though.

    Cheers

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Dalby
    Posts
    4,011
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Rosco View Post
    Also, if you decide to go with brakes, I'd strongly suggest 5 stud Landy pattern to suit your veh. That way all wheels are interchangeable.
    My trailer has Landy hubs and steel Disco wheels already. I guess if I upgrade to brakes I should be able to offload the hubs on Ebay easily.

Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!