Thread: Electric Brakes on Camper

On the list also: I will change the drums/hubs to some in LR stud pattern (and LR studs/nuts) and keep the 6 stud for the option if/when I sell either of the trailers and the buyer prefers the other pattern. I aim to have the identical LR setup on both trailers

BUGGER ! ! !

Partially inspired by this thread , I decided today to continue towards my goal of fitting electric trailer brakes to my green trailer.


The first question many would ask is "why???".
I guess the answer to that would have to be safety. As shown above the weight of the trailer is 260kgs .... add to that a decent load of firewood or crushed rock and I'm getting close to where I'd be needing/wanting some brakes. Being off road capable, I'd anticipate using it to carry materials for the high country hut works and then brakes would also be of great benefit.

So, why BUGGER

I pulled the wheels off and wheel bearings out today and found them to be different to those in my camper trailer.



my research so far suggests that the camper is on what is referred to as "Ford" bearings (1.4t rated) and the green trailer is on "Holden" bearings (1.0t rated).

So, to acheive my goal of identical electric brake setups under both trailers with both on LR wheels (which I already have) I'll need to change the axle on the green trailer.

BUGGER

Hi all, although i,m resurecting an old thread, i,m thinking of installing electric brakes on my camper trailer, and i,m wondering how many land rover parts i can use for mounting electric brakes on, such as backing plates, drums, hubs, etc, in order to achieve a high degree of standardisation, regarding wheels, tyres, bearings, seals, wheel nuts, etc, with the tow vehicle (defender)?.
The other reason i,m considering electric brakes is to aviod changing the hitch, which i,m happy to retain.
Thanks, in advance.

Timely thread, I like to know more too.

OMG! Some of the prices quoted here are high… For our new trailers, I purchased the entire kit – axle, with (L’cruiser) braked hubs already assembled for well under $500 (from memory it was more like 440). Just u-bolt it to the springs and connect the wires. They will not provide a warranty on unassembled parts. Only problem is handling and manoeuvring - 45mm sq axle assembled is heavy, but easy enough for two blokes. D1 hubs will be a little bit more, D2 should be about the same (just get commodore and change to M14 studs), however - remember, if using D2 alloys they will need to be bastardised and will no longer be suitable for the car, which is why I didn't bother this time (I did in 2002), not to mention resale (not many people want D2 hubs).

As Dave mentioned above; I ran much heavier cable for the controller (to Pin #5 on the car). In the pics on my build thread you can see how big the loom is from the plug on the trailer, each brake is independently wired terminating in the plug to provide a good +ve source (I’m using the large round – they have very big pins). Also the Earth is looped back to the camper battery charging cable through the Andersen plug – braking performance is superb. (The aux pin (#2) operates reversing lights).

Originally Posted by Savanahkelpy

Hi all, although i,m resurecting an old thread, i,m thinking of installing electric brakes on my camper trailer, and i,m wondering how many land rover parts i can use for mounting electric brakes on, such as backing plates, drums, hubs, etc, in order to achieve a high degree of standardisation, regarding wheels, tyres, bearings, seals, wheel nuts, etc, with the tow vehicle (defender)?.
The other reason i,m considering electric brakes is to aviod changing the hitch, which i,m happy to retain.
Thanks, in advance.

As far as I know the drum & hub are a single assembly & can be obtained with Land Rover stud pattern.

Originally Posted by harlie

OMG! Some of the prices quoted here are high… For our new trailers, I purchased the entire kit – axle, with (L’cruiser) braked hubs already assembled for well under $500 (from memory it was more like 440). Just u-bolt it to the springs and connect the wires. They will not provide a warranty on unassembled parts. Only problem is handling and manoeuvring - 45mm sq axle assembled is heavy, but easy enough for two blokes. D1 hubs will be a little bit more, D2 should be about the same (just get commodore and change to M14 studs), however - remember, if using D2 alloys they will need to be bastardised and will no longer be suitable for the car, which is why I didn't bother this time (I did in 2002), not to mention resale (not many people want D2 hubs).

As Dave mentioned above; I ran much heavier cable for the controller (to Pin #5 on the car). In the pics on my build thread you can see how big the loom is from the plug on the trailer, each brake is independently wired terminating in the plug to provide a good +ve source (I’m using the large round – they have very big pins). Also the Earth is looped back to the camper battery charging cable through the Andersen plug – braking performance is superb. (The aux pin (#2) operates reversing lights).

Can you let me know where I can get all the gear to do electric brake conversion? seams cheaper than I thought.. I will want to use landcruiser hubs

Cheers

Camo

Originally Posted by Camo

Can you let me know where I can get all the gear to do electric brake conversion? seams cheaper than I thought.. I will want to use landcruiser hubs

Cheers

Camo

Part List

Axles, hubs ect are manufactured on site. Brake systems are Dexter (USA). Parts for my latest build came from Active Fab after AL-KO pi*sed me about again - I will never go back to AL-KO.
To order axle, they require the rim face to outer tyre wall measurement and the overall width of trailer - Make sure you confirm bearing type on ordering

Brilliant!

Thanks Harlie