Thread: trailer axle brake electric turnback

I'll be placing an order for 10in electric brakes and Prodigy controller on Monday morning.

Thanks for the help guys. It's been a very informative thread.

Hi Justin

My Prodigy controller was way cheaper than $190.

Active Trailer Spares in Beenleigh.

Customline also deals with them

Originally Posted by DiscoDan

Hi Justin

My Prodigy controller was way cheaper than $190.

Active Trailer Spares in Beenleigh.

Customline also deals with them

That's the place.

I'll call them this morning then

They were shut on Friday arvo by the time I called them back.

OK got all the bits now to fit them..........

Although I forgot to buy the handbrake bits

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

I have no idea what the "turnback" is, however I have fitted electric brakes recently.

I discovered what the turnback refers to I think. The part of the stub which is between the hub seal and the square tube. If you have one (as I do) you get a round holed mounting flange if you don't you can get a square holed mounting flange (or round whatever suits your axle).

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

The backing plate for the brakes mounts onto a square mounting flange which has a large hole which is centred by the round machined part of your axle and is welded in place.

How you do that is affix the mounting flange onto the backing plate. Then assemble the hub/bearings (no seal) with backing plate in the vertical position onto the stub axle and do up the retaining nut. This will align everything and tack weld the mounting plate on 4 sides. Remove the backing plate and hub and complete the welding.

Diana in order to have a dummy run of welding the flanges on I've mounted the flanges to the backing plates and mounted the drum and bearings onto the stub and bolted it up.

When you weld the flange on do you squeeze the backing plate to the drum? There is not much difference (3mm) between squeezing the backing plate to the drum or pushing it back hard up to the end of the stub.
Also did you adjust the pads out to hold the backing plate in position when you welded it?

I assume from your description that you welded it from the back of the flange (suspension side).

Originally Posted by Utemad

.... Diana in order to have a dummy run of welding the flanges on I've mounted the flanges to the backing plates and mounted the drum and bearings onto the stub and bolted it up.

When you weld the flange on do you squeeze the backing plate to the drum? There is not much difference (3mm) between squeezing the backing plate to the drum or pushing it back hard up to the end of the stub.
Also did you adjust the pads out to hold the backing plate in position when you welded it?...

What we did was fit the flange to the backing plate and tighten the nuts up without spring washers. (There should be 4 locating whats-a-ma-thingos on the flanges which marry with locating holes on the backing plates, make sure you have them the correct way around) Fitted the inner bearing into the hub, then put the drum over the backing plate assembly and with a touch of grease on the stub axle pushed the drum and backing plate into position until it all came up against the shoulder. Then fit the outer bearing and tighten up the nut to just over finger tight.

After that we pushed the backing plate back until the drum rotated freely and then adjusted up the shoes.

This was the point where we tack welded the flanges.

If you only have an even 3mm on all sides after doing that, it is not going to be a problem if you push the backing plates all the way back. It will give you that extra safety margin and if the plates get bent off road and gives better clearance of the magnets off the drum.

The problem is that you don't know how accurate the machinist was when they made the axle.

Originally Posted by Utemad

...I assume from your description that you welded it from the back of the flange (suspension side).

Yes - while everything was assembled, just put 4 tack welds on each of the 4 corners. Then removed everything from the axle, including removing the backing plates from the flanges, then completed the welds.

Hope this helps.
Diana

Originally Posted by Lotz-A-Landies

Hope this helps.
Diana

Yes that helps a lot. Thanks

This might be wrong but looking at your axle there doesn't appear to be a taper on the stub, it looks a constant size to the thread, maybe the AL-KO guy was refering to the turnback as the taper of the stub on the axle.

An excample is this stub axle with the taper

Weld ring for square axle

Weld ring for round axle


Baz.