Thread: Trailer hubs to match Range Rover

Originally Posted by PhilipA

Be careful.
If you order LR PCD and they drill them, for their own 9/16 studs, the holes are too big for LR studs.
Look , there is a long discussion on this in the trailer section.
I have done it, and what you have to do (assuming parallel hubs) is to order blank hubs , have them drilled by an engineering shop to LR PCD, to match the spline size of a LR 16MM stud. You have to have the hole counterbored to get the stud to standard LR emergent length.

This is only necessary if you want metric studs to fit RRC mags.
Otherwise if you are happy with AF, then ALKO can supply, although they managed to stuff the first set up for me.( 1/2 LR and 1/2 LC)
Regards Philip A

About 3 weeks ago I purchased from Marshall engineering 1 LR PCD hubs for a tractor trailer and it came with standard 9/16 UNF studs.

Down to R&E Auto and ordered standard M16 LR studs and nuts and 2 days later drilled the hubs in the drill press to 16mm and pressed the studs in.

NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.

In electric brake hubs I dont know if there would be extra machining to do but I'd assume it wouldnt be brain surgery.

9/16 stud spline was about 15mm or bloody close to it
M16 stud spline is close to 16.5mm

Plenty of meat to play with.

Originally Posted by mcrover

About 3 weeks ago I purchased from Marshall engineering 1 LR PCD hubs for a tractor trailer and it came with standard 9/16 UNF studs.

Down to R&E Auto and ordered standard M16 LR studs and nuts and 2 days later drilled the hubs in the drill press to 16mm and pressed the studs in.

NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.

In electric brake hubs I dont know if there would be extra machining to do but I'd assume it wouldnt be brain surgery.

9/16 stud spline was about 15mm or bloody close to it
M16 stud spline is close to 16.5mm

Plenty of meat to play with.

what he said,
punch out 9/16 studs re drill to suit the m16 studs, dont need a press you can rattle gun the studs in.
have a look at my 130 trailer build its all explained there, including pic's of what you need to do for fitting LR alloys.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/trailers-v...r-build-3.html
cheers phil

Can a mod move this to the camper trailer section pleeeease.

I'll want to refer back to this stuff down the track and won't know where to find it.

490502
5/8" UNF special - short knurl R/Rover 10" Electric



5/8" UNF51mm 17.5mm






OK Its the 5/8 which is the equivalent of 16 MM studs that are the problem. The Knurled area is a bigger diameter than the Land rover studs.

If you order 9/16 they are too small for LR wheel holes, if you want to use the ALKO studs and UNF nuts.

Regards Philip A

Originally Posted by mcrover

About 3 weeks ago I purchased from Marshall engineering 1 LR PCD hubs for a tractor trailer and it came with standard 9/16 UNF studs.

Down to R&E Auto and ordered standard M16 LR studs and nuts and 2 days later drilled the hubs in the drill press to 16mm and pressed the studs in.

NO PROBLEMS AT ALL. ...
... 9/16 stud spline was about 15mm or bloody close to it
M16 stud spline is close to 16.5mm
Plenty of meat to play with.

Originally Posted by discowhite

what he said,
punch out 9/16 studs re drill to suit the m16 studs, dont need a press you can rattle gun the studs in. ...
... cheers phil

Thanks Guys

I didn't think I was mistaken with the stud hole sizes.

Cheers
Diana

Originally Posted by mcrover

About 3 weeks ago I purchased from Marshall engineering 1 LR PCD hubs for a tractor trailer and it came with standard 9/16 UNF studs.

Down to R&E Auto and ordered standard M16 LR studs and nuts and 2 days later drilled the hubs in the drill press to 16mm and pressed the studs in.

NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.

In electric brake hubs I dont know if there would be extra machining to do but I'd assume it wouldnt be brain surgery.

9/16 stud spline was about 15mm or bloody close to it
M16 stud spline is close to 16.5mm

Plenty of meat to play with.

What were the 10 M16 studs and nuts worth?

Thanks for the help so far.

The saga continues:
Looking at the gear on the trailer:
Toyota LC electric braked hubs on Ford bearings (slimline) from Vehicle Components in Brisbane.
They can supply LR hubs (5/8 studs) , but not on the smaller axle .. so a replacement axle is required. They were very helpful when I called them, but freight would be a killer.

I have been offered a pair of Simplicity hubs by a local mate (took them off a caravan and made it Toyota!) (again 5/8 studs) but again will need new axle.

Looks like I can use the backing plates and brakes.

The existing track on the trailer is narrower than my '88 RR so a new axle is probably a good idea anyway. The trailer can accommodate a wider track.

I'll investigate local supply of a 45mm axle with correct stubs etc.

Looks like I put up with the 5/8 studs until I visit a vendor who has Simplicity or AlKo, undrilled hubs, and can get 16mm studs installed.

Another suggestion was to use RR rear hubs, complete with discs, go for override brakes - hydraulic (use RR rear calipers) or cable (use caravan type mechanical calipers) and get a local machine shop to make up the axle. That way trailer and vehicle would have same bearings etc... going this way would also mean new coupling, but then the existing does mean I cant fold the back down when trailer attached.....

Makes the new axle sound attractive for now.

the hubs in my link are/were blank SLM hubs.
the studs i used were punched out of some old LR hubs i had lying around, but you can still buy them new from karcraft for $3-4 each.

i had a local machine shop mark the pcd on the hub and a bit of maths, a zeus book and a protractor, the hubs were ready to be drilled. nothing hard didnt even use a bench drill.

cheers phil