Thread: AT35 Hitch what a #####!

Hey mate... Have a look on ozhitch.com they have a conversion kit for the AT35 that make will make it a lot easier to use afterwards.

Good luck

Cheers

I have only ever watch people struggle with AT35/tregg type couplings, have never own one but when a mate of mine brought a DO35 it convince me to fit one to my camper trailer.......

although i was nearly temped to fit a standard hitch that is on box trailers as i doubt many offroad trailers ever get near to angles that require a fully rotating hitch.....

Hi all... just joined up and navigating my way around the site. Cant work out how to do a post to say hi, if anyone can help as I am new to this. Hi to all that see this anyhow. Cheers

Hitchguru

I have an ORAC (O'Briens) coupling on my camper, it is unbelievably difficult to attach in some situations. We have camped each Christmas for the past 8 years at the same site for a convention; the site is on a slope so I dig holes to drop the wheels in to get the height of the downhill end of the camper (kitchen end) at the desired height. Having the wheels in holes means I can't wriggle the trailer from side to side at all when it's time to hook up. Actually, un-hooking in this situation is just as difficult, as the trailer dropping into the holes inevitably puts some sideways load on the coupling and makes withdrawing the pin very difficult. I've taken to lowering the trailer down into the holes on the winch cable when we arrive, then pulling the trailer out on the safety chains and hooking up on level ground when it's time to go. It's a major frustration with this type of hitch. I've considered converting to hook-and-pintle but have worried that the rattling would ruin my driving pleasure on outback trips.

Originally Posted by POD

I have an ORAC (O'Briens) coupling on my camper, it is unbelievably difficult to attach in some situations. I can't wriggle the trailer from side to side at all when it's time to hook up. Actually, un-hooking in this situation is just as difficult, as the trailer dropping into the holes inevitably puts some sideways load on the coupling and makes withdrawing the pin very difficult.

I agree 100% - I have a Orac on my camper and yesterday I spent 30mins with a friend helping trying to connect up (not helped by the RRS rolling a bit when the car goes into park and handbrake on) - alignment has to be perfect. The unhook took 15mins and a lot of bashing with the mash hammer to bash the pin in and out.

I have bought a Ozhitch Shop to go on and will do that next year. They can be bought from Ozhitch via much cheaper than their website. What I did not realise was that the sell each part individually and have a kit that could be used to convert the Orac bit on the trailer to fit the Ozhitch system - much cheaper. I haven't used it but the reviews are favourable.

But I think I should have bought a Hyland Hitch which used a standard tow ball so as long as you get the trailer coupling near enough to the ball when the trailer is lowered the coupling will go straight on.

Agree, Orac = PITA

Garry

Maybe a Mchitch...

Just Released! - Platinum Series

Does a Hyland Hitch rattle as much as a regular ball? That's the only issue I have on my dirt-road caravan.

Sent from my phone using Tapatalk

I was wrong . my hitch is similar to an ORAC, which I wanted because it is low profile and I can have the tongue pointing upward and still open my RRC tailgate.
Thes eIMHO are easier than TREG ( which my trailer came with) as I can line up the car , then set the height with the jockey wheel. If I am not straight on or because of slope etc , I can pull the pin on the tongue and do it up and then back on to it.

Caravan and Camper Trailer Couplings

Regards Philip A