Thread: Disco 3 Motor Options

Don, Have a read of this thread. Although it was done with a territory engine and gear box some of the info is relevant, particularly the post by Greame regarding the different CAN bus wiring after 2010 between D3 & D4.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ues-2-7-a.html

Originally Posted by SBD4

Don, Have a read of this thread. Although it was done with a territory engine and gear box some of the info is relevant, particularly the post by Greame regarding the different CAN bus wiring after 2010 between D3 & D4.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/...ues-2-7-a.html

I just hd a Territory engine fittted to by MY08 D3 by MR Automotive.


I'm not sure what model / year territory though. Suggest giving them a call and picking their brain on it.

I have managed to get my hands on a new EU4 TD 2.7 V6 for just under $10K
The root mode of failure was the collapse of the co-drive chain between the two cams on the passenger side head causing the exhaust cam to lock solid and the momentum of engine and vehicle doing 80k ultimately moved the drive sprocket and subsequent instant damage to valves and pistons and probably the bottom end.

Originally Posted by PeterOZ

I just hd a Territory engine fittted to by MY08 D3 by MR Automotive.


I'm not sure what model / year territory though. Suggest giving them a call and picking their brain on it.

Just as some side info for whoever is interested..

A brand new crate engine from J Land Rover can be purchased for round that 9K - 12K, in either a brand new or a factory refurb option, I've used both (depending on available supply), the factory refurb, the only used part on it would be the cast iron block and I suspect it prolly gets built on the same engine assembly line as any other engine. All I do is supply the year model, VIN. Supplied as what is called "stripped" but includes:

*Complete bottom end, including upgraded crankshaft & oil pump assembly (for the 2.7lt).
*Cylinder heads fitted complete right upto glowplugs, fuel cooler, the plastic cam covers.
*front timing assembly complete with cover.
*Oil filter & engine is filled with oil.

Yes there is more labour cost to strip all the ancillary parts off the old engine, clean inspect, fit to the new engine. But EVERY single engine change I've done has been absolutely trouble free, I'm almost into double figures now with engine changes. I wont even consider used engines from wreckers that will say ANYTHING for a sale "low mileage" "its in great condition" "oh its not from XX year model, but it will work".

pic is one such smooth change over;
https://www.facebook.com/aztech4x4/p...type=3&theater

For owners its peace of mind you are getting a perfect new engine, for repairers you know its going to work in that year model and be trouble free.

Regards
Daz

Thanks for the info Daz,
As I mentioned I obtained a new Engine (crate) from Triumph/Rover spares in SA, The cost under 10K delivered to dealer w/shop.and it is a LR factory refurb Was advised by dealer that with low Au$$ for a new one would cost up about $15K ++ ex UK. The cost to install /changeover and other work is almost the same as the Engine itself at the dealer. Reason back at dealer as they put new timing belts on it 20k ago (@168k) and had to explore the chance of item warranty but discovered a broken chain . What I would like to know is why the chain broke and was it influenced by the chain tension device?? At the end of the day I will have to sweat the asset after spending nearly $20k and keep it.

Originally Posted by DazzaTD5

Just as some side info for whoever is interested..

A brand new crate engine from J Land Rover can be purchased for round that 9K - 12K, in either a brand new or a factory refurb option, I've used both (depending on available supply), the factory refurb, the only used part on it would be the cast iron block and I suspect it prolly gets built on the same engine assembly line as any other engine. All I do is supply the year model, VIN. Supplied as what is called "stripped" but includes:

*Complete bottom end, including upgraded crankshaft & oil pump assembly (for the 2.7lt).
*Cylinder heads fitted complete right upto glowplugs, fuel cooler, the plastic cam covers.
*front timing assembly complete with cover.
*Oil filter & engine is filled with oil.

Yes there is more labour cost to strip all the ancillary parts off the old engine, clean inspect, fit to the new engine. But EVERY single engine change I've done has been absolutely trouble free, I'm almost into double figures now with engine changes. I wont even consider used engines from wreckers that will say ANYTHING for a sale "low mileage" "its in great condition" "oh its not from XX year model, but it will work".

pic is one such smooth change over;
https://www.facebook.com/aztech4x4/p...type=3&theater

For owners its peace of mind you are getting a perfect new engine, for repairers you know its going to work in that year model and be trouble free.

Regards
Daz

Originally Posted by DonDownunder

Thanks for the info Daz,
As I mentioned I obtained a new Engine (crate) from Triumph/Rover spares in SA, The cost under 10K delivered to dealer w/shop.and it is a LR factory refurb Was advised by dealer that with low Au$$ for a new one would cost up about $15K ++ ex UK. The cost to install /changeover and other work is almost the same as the Engine itself at the dealer. Reason back at dealer as they put new timing belts on it 20k ago (@168k) and had to explore the chance of item warranty but discovered a broken chain . What I would like to know is why the chain broke and was it influenced by the chain tension device?? At the end of the day I will have to sweat the asset after spending nearly $20k and keep it.

Round that $20K is about right, so I think your repair was well within the ball park for cost.

I've not actually had one that broke the (timing) chain and the tensioner for each chain is a spring tensioner with an oil passage through it to allow good lubing of the chain/guide. Ive not noticed a huge amount of wear in either the chain or the tensioner, without looking at it, I'm merely speculating. Maybe someone has had this happen and has a better answer.

Just some info for ones that might be confused with "timing chain". One camshaft on each cylinder head is driven by the "timing belt" on the front of the engine (external), the other camshaft (as its a twin overhead camshaft engine) is driven by the first camshaft via a timing chain.

The second "timing belt" on the back of the engine (external) when quoted to replace your timing belt isnt actually a timing belt, and drives the high pressure fuel pump (the spec is to replace both out at the same interval).

Regards
Daz

Daz,

Sounds like you are getting a lot of work from blown TdV6's. Have they all been the same failure mode, and what has been the range of km's?

David

Originally Posted by DiscoDB

Daz,

Sounds like you are getting a lot of work from blown TdV6's. Have they all been the same failure mode, and what has been the range of km's?

David

David, 189,000 k on my Disco 3, NS Timing chain broke. It will be interesting to remove both the cams, broken chain and tensioner and drill down to find root cause. Nothing worse than not finding anything. Don