Fossicker
Let this post be the one that fixes TD5 vibration & knocking for good. I have read hundreds of post on the subject but they all end without providing the solution
. Problem: irritating noise, vibration, knocking of the engine from 2000 rpm & up. Has always been there but is getting worse. Discovery 2 with 185000 km. Checked/replaced all of the usual, drive/prop shafts, engine mounts, checked exhaust clearance, removed injectors, checked accoustic cover bolts, checked vibration dampers on crankshaft pully and gearbox. To no avail. Vibration can be felt in the seat, dashboard etc. At standstill revving the engine you feel it clearly so it must be engine related. Worse when cold (live in Norway with a harsh winter this time, so -15C was quite common) but always present even when at operating temperatures. Any suggestions are welcomed!
Wizard
SupporterAuto or Manual?
Mine is a manual and has none of these vibrations you mentions. However, I have driven an auto before that had the most rediculous vibration at 2200rpm. It was absolutley unbarable, and even worse in the back seat. Mine has a RH front engine mount that is worn and has been for some time now, and still I have no vibration.
Discovery RockSliders
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-veran...ies-1-2-a.html
Fossicker
Sorry - auto gearbox. But surely it's engine related.
ChatterBox
Drive plate on Autos are known to fracture/ crack around bolt holes. This is your most likely problem as you have done everything else.Originally Posted by dutchviking
Cheers
Fossicker
Thanks for the advice. Will problems with these plates also relate to vibration/knocking when the Disco is not driving, gearbox in P? What should I expect to see through one of the openings in the case to confirm problems in that area?
ChatterBox
Remove the inspection plate on the bottom of the bell housing. There are 3 bolts holding the torque converter to the drive plate. You will have to rotate the engine to see each bolt. Use a torch and look for cracks around the bolt holes and check the torque on the bolts. Yes it will rattle in P if this is your problem. Bad news is that the box has to come off to fix it. Further bad news is that if the torque converter has rattle around too much it may need seal ( I wont mention worse yet) replacement also.
cheers
Fossicker
OK, will spend some time on it tomorrow - and report back. Thanks for explaining
Wizard
Mine is crapping me so much I have started looking at D3's.....
MAF - done
Harness - done
Mounts - done
exhaust - tested
Happens at stand still but only ever so slightly. I had always thought it was box related (the input side). Will have the fly wheel tested. Do they run a dual mass as I heard they can be problematic..
2300 rpm it is harsh...only lasts 200rpm or so.
ChatterBox
Is yours Auto?
Just to confirm you are talking about vibration and not noise?
Manuals are dual mass flywheel. There are a few threads on the DMF here and plenty of thoughts.
Solid flywheels are available.
Many new manual vehicles now use a DMF and they can develop a bit of a rattle at idle.
If we are talking manual, does it change when engageing or disengageing the clutch?
Noise with clutch engaged in N is usually input shaft bearing, (but could be DMF)
Noise with clutch disengaged (foot on pedal) will likely be thrust bearing.
Since you are talking 2300rpm and through a narrow rev range, there could be other factors.
cheers
Wizard
Oops, should have mentioned it's an auto. But an excellent response nonetheless
cheers
Caine
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