Front wheel bearings on early 110.

**defenderbilby** · 23rd August 2006, 07:53 PM

G'day All,
I have just finished fixing up the swivels on the Isuzu 110. Not as hard a job as I thought. Replaced bearing at the lower pin and replaced upper pin and bush/washer. All set to 9lbs with the spring balance then fixed the oil seal/gaskets to the swivel.
Split the CV, cleaned and inspected, greased and reassembled. Never seen one before but with manual easy to do.
Placed axle and CV into the swivel.
The stub axles where worn where the inner bearing sits shown by chrome had worn off so brought 2 new one and put in new seal and brass bush in rear and bolted this back on. The disc had well and truely past its used by date so new ones bolted to the hub. As I had done this much I replace inner and outer bearings packed in grease. New seal at back, lightly greased and fed it up to the stub axle.
Now my problems begin. The wheel bearing nut is tightened with hub tube spanner but there is some play in the hub. Initially I thought it was from the swivels as that was new to me, I have done wheel bearings on other cars heaps of times with no issues. Reset the swivels and after replacing oil seal and gaskets swung on the swivels and could get no play or wobble, just a nice smoothe rotation. On fixing the hub onto the stub axle still have some play.
The axle # 20L10233A is early 85 model. On reading the manual it says press rear seal 4 - 5mm below rear face.
The seals supplied are RTC3511 which have a lip which makes them slightly proud of the rear face.
Is this rear seal my problem and if so what seal should I be using?
If I use these seals do I just force them down the short distance into the hub.
Hopefully there are a few spanner men who can help me.

Thanks,
David.

**kie4** · 23rd August 2006, 08:04 PM

Hi ive never had those seals sitting proud. they have always gone down 4-5 mm ( or until they wont go any futher). That may be your problem.
Rich

**rick130** · 23rd August 2006, 08:10 PM

yep, that seal must be seated 4mm below the hub face.

Quite a few of us use those 'old' seals on Defenders as they are a superior seal to the 'newer' ones.

**DEFENDERZOOK** · 23rd August 2006, 10:10 PM

if you do up the hub nut tight.....it should push the seal in.....

ive been taught to do the bearing up tight and spin the hub....then back off the nut and adjust correctly.....
this helps seat the bearings.....

**defenderbilby** · 24th August 2006, 05:12 PM

Thanks for replys.

As Rick130 mentioned the seals must be seated 4 mm below the hub face.
I removed the hubs again today and pressed in the seals further down and now no problems. Able to set the bearings and no play in the hub.

There are 2 different seals. The seal that I used RTC3511 has a lip which I thought would sit on the hub face when pressed in. I pressed this further down and now no worries.
The newer seal FRC8221 has no lip.

I have also found a website that with pictures and diagrams shows how to do the swivel/hub service very easy for the non mechanics.
http://www.difflock.com/project-110/hubs/index.shtml

Because I have the bushes I will use oil and not grease in swivel hubs.

David

**harro** · 24th August 2006, 05:47 PM

Originally Posted by defenderbilby

Thanks for replys.

As Rick130 mentioned the seals must be seated 4 mm below the hub face.
I removed the hubs again today and pressed in the seals further down and now no problems. Able to set the bearings and no play in the hub.

There are 2 different seals. The seal that I used RTC3511 has a lip which I thought would sit on the hub face when pressed in. I pressed this further down and now no worries.
The newer seal FRC8221 has no lip.

I have also found a website that with pictures and diagrams shows how to do the swivel/hub service very easy for the non mechanics.
http://www.difflock.com/project-110/hubs/index.shtml

Because I have the bushes I will use oil and not grease in swivel hubs.

David

If the seal has a lip it is an oil seal, for oil immersed bearings . If it doesn't it is a dust seal for greased bearings.

**rick130** · 24th August 2006, 09:04 PM

Originally Posted by harro

If the seal has a lip it is an oil seal, for oil immersed bearings . If it doesn't it is a dust seal for greased bearings.

The RTC3511 hub seal (from an '80's 110) is preferred as it is a double lip, spring energised oil seal which stops water ingress in greased or oil lubed hubs, unlike, say, a Defender FTC4785 hub seal.

**LRCounty** · 24th August 2006, 10:17 PM

To drift the seal in the perfect distance on my own County, I just use the drive member as the drift tool. A small piece of wood on the top, and tap it until the seal is in as far as the drive member will push it. It's exactly the distance in it should be, and perfectly even all around too.

Cheers
Andre

**defenderbilby** · 25th August 2006, 07:03 AM

Originally Posted by LRCounty

To drift the seal in the perfect distance on my own County, I just use the drive member as the drift tool. A small piece of wood on the top, and tap it until the seal is in as far as the drive member will push it. It's exactly the distance in it should be, and perfectly even all around too.

Cheers
Andre

Thanks for the tip. I used an old bearing cap but this idea would be perfect if needing to do repair in bush.

What do you do to stop those metal dust caps from falling off?

David

**JDNSW** · 25th August 2006, 07:18 AM

Originally Posted by defenderbilby

What do you do to stop those metal dust caps from falling off?

David

My 110 has plastic caps - that need replacing about once a year (only a slight exaggeration), but on the Series 2a I use an application of gasket cement - the stuff that goes hard. Seems to work.

John

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Front wheel bearings on early 110.

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