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Thread: fitting an overdrive

  1. #1
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    fitting an overdrive

    hi all
    any tips / traps for young players about fitting an overdrive to my 101.
    many thanks to ron for everything. having cables made as we speak any getting a handle/lever thingy made now getting 2 done if you want on garry
    got circlip plyers ready cleaned up the transfer case ready to go ... just thought i would ask the gang before i start ... wish me luck

  2. #2
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    The easy bit is putting the o/d itself in. The hard bit is setting up the lever, cables, rear brackets on the gearbox and modifying the winch bracket to fit under the o/d.

    Thanks for the offer of a cable but I had all new ones made last year - including for the O/d.

    I would use the winch lever in its current position to operate the O/d - suitably modified - cut off the micro switch arm and extend the lever to just a bit longer than the hi/lo range lever and make up a new flat winch lever and move it over to the passenger side - you will need to weld the micro switch arm on this lever so - it will still work fine.

    This way you will have the levers you use the most closest to you. Closest will be the O/D lever (the longest one), then next across is the Hi/Lo lever (unmodified) and furtherest across (and the shortest) is the winch lever. That way you do not have to stretch across the cab to change the O/D.

    Also on the brackets and levers on the O/d itself, I found room under the floor was a bit tight. The activating arm that the cable connect to can be set up so it sticks up or sticks down. Because of the space problem I set mine in the down position - this means the lever in the cab is pushed forward to engage O/d. If I remember correctly Ron has his rear bracket in the top position so he pulls back on his cabin lever to engage O/D. Either is fine - personal preference I suppose and depends on how much insulation you have under your gearbox floor cover.

    Cheers

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
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    thanks for that ... i am having two levers made up to match the transfer one but a bit taller let me know if you want it

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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  6. #6
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  7. #7
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    Hi Iain
    See in the pics you will need a plate and ball swivel set up to go with the O/D cable on both ends of the new cable.
    con wire will supply them , but you will have to nicely push them to do so as they order them in special.
    Run the extra cable as per the pto and transfercase cable around the engine.
    I use a old series landrover yellow 4wd knob for the O/D lever.
    Only use the O/D in 4 th gear as using it in lower gears may over torque it and break it and there are no spares and parts and bearings for it are non standard.
    The pto/winch cable will interfear with the overdrive slightly and how you handle that is up to you.
    I as in the pics you can see I made a special alloy anchor bracket for the pto/winch cable.
    Forward position of the overdrive lever is direct drive and pulling the lever back drops you though neutral and then into overdrive.

  8. #8
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  9. #9
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    These are con wires own notes.
    Pass them on as it will help them greatly and ensure they will not stuff up your new cables.


  10. #10
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    The overdrive and transfercase both run engine oil.
    They share their oil and this helps overdrive cooling.
    top up transfercase first and leave oil level plug out.
    Next fill up the overdrive to its level plug.
    Any excess in the over drive gearbox will run out though the transfercase level plug.
    refit transfercase and overdrive level plugs.
    I tend to run molybond/Proma type additives to help things a bit.
    Do not add any additive which thickens the oil like Nulon or Lucas.
    I made up a alloy plate which stops oil leaking out of the overdrive when hot from the countershaft which protrudes though the overdrive housing.





    Let us know what you think of the overdrive in the 101.
    You should find you can keep the power on for longer going down a hill and greatly reduce the front tailshaft buzz.
    Ron

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