The easy bit is putting the o/d itself in.  The hard bit is setting up the lever, cables, rear brackets on the gearbox and modifying the winch bracket to fit under the o/d.
Thanks for the offer of a cable but I had all new ones made last year - including for the O/d.
I would use the winch lever in its current position to operate the O/d - suitably modified - cut off the micro switch arm and extend the lever to just a bit longer than the hi/lo range lever and make up a new flat winch lever and move it over to the passenger side - you will need to weld the micro switch arm on this lever so - it will still work fine.
This way you will have the levers you use the most closest to you.  Closest will be the O/D lever (the longest one), then next across is the Hi/Lo lever (unmodified) and furtherest across (and the shortest) is the winch lever.  That way you do not have to stretch across the cab to change the O/D.
Also on the brackets and levers on the O/d itself, I found room under the floor was a bit tight.  The activating arm that the cable connect to can be set up so it sticks up or sticks down.  Because of the space problem I set mine in the down position - this means the lever in the cab is pushed forward to engage O/d.  If I remember correctly Ron has his rear bracket in the top position so he pulls back on his cabin lever to engage O/D.  Either is fine - personal preference I suppose and depends on how much insulation you have under your gearbox floor cover.
Cheers
Garry
				
			 
			
		 
			
				
			
			
				REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101 
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
			
			
		 
	
Bookmarks